The symbolic power of an Egyptian obelisk. The force of nature. The fascination of a work of art. The genius of modern architecture. The exuberance of food. A tour among the new inspirations that modernize the jewelry world
«ONE SUNDAY MORNING, while I was making an omelet, I accidentally dropped an egg on the floor. I imme- diately got a piece of paper and drew four new jewelry items inspired by the elements of that disaster. » This is how Fredrik Nathorst, designer and co-founder of the Swedish brand, All Blues, describes the origin of his latest collection entitled Ruined Omelette, the shapes of which faithfully mimic the pieces of a broken egg, transforming the egg white, yolk and shell halves into stylish gold and silver earrings, rings and pendants. This very original anecdote goes to show that observing the world and gathering inspiration is still an indispensable prelude to a creative act: a (senti)mental course that is the embryo of all those emotions and sensations destined to reveal their strength in a work of art. And if food appears to be the latest fashion obsession — one only has to think of Dolce & Gabbana which, for its Spring/Summer 2017 collection, took a print inspired by pasta, including spaghetti, macaroni and quills, onto the catwalk — the jewelry world style is becoming increasingly more contemporary and full of cross–fertilization, thanks to those brands that nurture a particular sensitivity for other artistic disciplines and a privileged relationship with nature. Looking at their new collections is like taking a timeless tour in faraway places and through the imagination.
THINK ABOUT huge blocks of floating ice and an expanse of infinite white. We are in the Antarctic, that distant point on the Earth where nature is wild and powerful. It is here where Monique Péan, a designer constantly heedful of sustainability and ethical trade, found inspiration for the new Atelier collection, creating a series of rings, brace- lets and necklaces that, through diamonds and precious stones combined with rigorously recycled platinum and white gold, evoke the colors of glacial icescapes.
Now close your eyes, ignore the boundaries of time, and you will find yourselves in ancient Egypt, at the foot of a magical obelisk with enormous symbolic power — it was thought that this monument could unite heaven and earth. Its geometric shape, soaring upwards, becomes a distinctive element of jewelry by the young Parisian brand, Tejen, which actually takes its name from the ancient word used to define obelisks. Changing culture, but still immersed in spirituality, the last chapter of the Akasha collection by Noor Fares, takes us towards a Buddhist and Hindu belief, according to which nine stones correspond to different parts of the body with the ability to absorb and transmit energy. Between red garnet, carnelian, Iolite and cat’s eye quartz, the new generation circular pendants and earrings by Noor Fares, are loaded with highly imaginative power.
THE RETURN to present day is a fascinating landing among the dark beauty of Pierre Molinier, thanks to the work of Hannah Martin, who ably reinterprets the style of her favorite photographer in Somebody’s Sins, a collection exploring the conflicting themes of restraint and freedom, dominance and individualism, possession and the freedom of expression. On the other hand, the work of Eva Zuckerman from the Eva Fehren brand, is an intense interpretation of New York‘s urban beauty. She has chosen intricate architectonic shapes and elements to reproduce interlacing of the lines and patterns of the Big Apple’s most iconic buildings.
*As originally featured in the last issue of the VO+ USA special edition
Words by Antonella Reina