Stephen Webster, Curator of the Wonders of Nature
The color market is moving from a system based on a traditional hierarchy of stones, precious over semi-precious, to one that now looks at rarity, uniqueness, natural phenomena, chromatic complexity, storytelling, as explained by the British designer.
«I've been going to the Tucson Gem Show for over forty years and I keep coming back for the same reason I went the first time: the chance to discover something I wasn't looking for. At the beginning, Tucson was not considered a strategic venue for international high jewelry. It was a very American, informal, almost pioneering show. This atmosphere is precisely what made it a place of extraordinary creative freedom because we could find stones that had not yet entered the language of contemporary jewelry.Even now, it is one of the few events where you can come back with something unexpected to share with your team.
Double Dutch ring, in rose gold with a central peridot, white diamonds, rubies,Double Dutch ring, in rose gold with a central peridot, white diamonds, rubies,pink sapphires and shimmering tassels, The ReBelles collection.
The value of Tucson in my opinion is not so much finding rubies, emeralds or sapphires - which you always find anyway - but rather discovering gems that can open up new creative possibilities. About ten years ago, for example, I bought a gray spinel almost out of curiosity, which I used to define a design with white diamonds and the jewel sold immediately.At the time, gray was not a “desirable” color for a gem but this very anomaly made it fascinating. In the space of a few years, also due to the attention of the media and the work of some designers, interest in spinel grew considerably.Nowadays, it is an accredited and appreciated stone and a perfect example of how new trends can emerge when someone decides to look beyond the more traditional gems. I believe that the real opportunity for jewelry today is to surprise the customer with nature’s wonders.
Making Waves ring, in white gold, carved white moonstone, greyMaking Waves ring, in white gold, carved white moonstone, greyand white diamonds, The ReBelles collection.
For a long time, the sector was dominated by the idea of perfection, especially in diamonds.Now, however, more and more people are attracted to stones that have something unique to say: unexpected hues, rare natural phenomena, color combinations that seem almost impossible. Two-tone sapphires for example, or gems in extraordinary shades, where yellow, green and blue coexist in the same stone. When a customer discovers that such a gem really exists and that there will never be another one like it, an extraordinarily strong emotional bond is immediately created.The idea of uniqueness has become a central value in today’s market.
Rocket Girl ring, in blue titanium and white gold, set with Paraíba tourmalines,Rocket Girl ring, in blue titanium and white gold, set with Paraíba tourmalines,diamonds, purple and blue sapphires, The ReBelles collection.
At the same time, it is essential to find stones that also allow a certain accessibility. At the moment, I find some Malaya garnets from Tanzania particularly interesting with shades ranging from coppery pink to pinkish brown. These extremely bright and durable gemstones are still relatively under the radar.With the price of gold at current levels, finding stones that offer character, gemological quality and a price balance has become essential for creating credible propositions for a broader clientele. Not everyone can or wants to buy a large Colombian emerald, but that doesn't mean relinquishing a stone with personality. My business model has also changed in recent years.I have progressively reduced wholesale to focus on a more direct relationship with customers, often starting from the gem itself. Presenting loose stones and building the jewel around them is a process that is also perfect for storytelling on social media: showing where the gems are found, how they are selected and how they become jewels generates intense involvement.In this sense, bespoke is becoming an increasingly central component of our work.
Red Sail Sunset ring, in yellow gold, with a central orange citrine, cabochonRed Sail Sunset ring, in yellow gold, with a central orange citrine, cabochonruby sails and diamond, The ReBelles collection.
The colored gem market is experiencing one of the most dynamic moments I have ever seen in my career. Customers are more curious, more informed and much more open to discovery. Designers can therefore introduce stones that, until a few years ago, would have stayed completely off the radar, and transform them into new objects of desire.»Since the brand was first established in 1989, Stephen Webster continues to break the rules of jewelry with designs that are intelligent, thought-provoking and visionary. Stephen’s keen eye for detail, commitment to ethical production and respect for traditional British craftsmanship have helped him achieve numerous accolades.