High Jewelry 2026/27: The Echo of the Past. The Questions of the Future

Creating a high jewelry collection today is a responsibility. This is especially true for the great houses, those that have written the history of jewelry and must confront the weight of their own legacy. It is a particularly tangible challenge along the octagonal perimeter of Place Vendôme in Paris—a landmark institution for jewelry, where history, savoir-faire, rigor, and imagination are in the air. Here, the past is a fertile presence. The spirit of Gabrielle Chanel, for instance, still lives within the walls of the boutique at number 18 Place Vendôme. "My jewelry represents an idea," she loved to say. No one like her knew how to break with the conventions of traditional jewelry. Free and progressive, she used to pair sumptuous jewelry with simpler pieces that she considered her talismans. It is to her most cherished symbols that the new Signes & Symboles High Jewelry collection is dedicated. The camellia, the star, the sun, and the lion are the patterns of 85 creations that celebrate the art of goldsmithing in its most cultural dimension. What stands out most is the chromatic dialogue between precious and semi-precious gems, brought together with a "bold" compositional freedom. The Leone Imprimé necklace encompasses everything: diamonds, emeralds, and custom-cut stones form a vertical structure in rose and white gold, topped by an octagonal sapphire. Daring – in inspiration, in the choice of opulent or humble materials, in pushing toward the impossible – is what allows such collections to restore a sense of the sublime. For over two centuries, Chaumet has drawn inspiration from Empress Josephine, the house's first historic client. The 46 creations of the new "A Journey Through Nature" collection transform her botanical passion into a sensory experience. Spices, aromas, and plants become precious materials: from magnificent pieces inspired by tea fields to compositions that interpret the flavor of vanilla or coffee. Mellerio, one of the oldest jewelry houses in the world, founded in 1613, treasures an extraordinary archive that collects historical documents, royal privileges granted by Marie de' Medici and her successors, ledgers, and thousands of creations. A heritage spanning more than four centuries of French jewelry, it represents an inexhaustible source of inspiration. For 2026, the house revives an intuition born in 1951: nail ornaments. Reworked today in white gold and diamonds. Boucheron, with "Carte Blanche Human Being," shifts the reflection to an existential level, with a series of masterfully constructed creations that invite us to question what we consider precious and whose hand is capable of bringing unique pieces to life. Creative director Claire Choisne chose to interpret the cluster necklace, an archetypal model of the brand, in five parures, the result of bold and skillful human experimentation. Beyond the big French names, the Paris scene also confirmed the strength of Italian houses, which brought different visions united by an insuperable Made in Italy craftsmanship. Room, therefore, for technical research and design culture. Buccellati's "Serenissima" is a tribute to the eternal charm of Venice. A high jewelry collection that captures the artisanal mastery of the lagoon city, told through a light texture achieved with the openwork technique. Pomellato's "Stile Libero" transforms freedom into a language of style. Inspired by effortless Milanese elegance, the collection celebrates a contemporary, plural, and constantly evolving femininity through 65 creations, animated by the color of prominent gems and futuristic volumes. Damiani's "Arte Maestra" is an opportunity to admire the works of Caravaggio, Klimt, and Botticelli – to name just a few – through a decidedly precious lens. The parures are inspired by the eternal masterpieces of unforgettable artists, restoring their power through ambitious artisanal virtuosity. The future legacy of jewelry, however, also passes through the work of emerging brands. Names like Viltier and Mara Paris stand out, proving how the future of jewelry is also born from new perspectives – far from traditional codes, yet aware of their importance. And the highly personal style of names like Cora Sheibani also stands out; the Swiss designer presented her creations to the French public in an exhibition hosted by Christie’s. Her creations bring together the rigor and excellence of European craftsmanship, a playful approach, and continuous research supported by an extensive knowledge of art, design, and goldsmithing tradition. If we were, therefore, to outline a common thread in the path of contemporary high jewelry, it would pass through the word coexistence. A term that encapsulates the desire of a seemingly inaccessible world to exist within the collective imagination. High jewelry cannot detach itself from its past: remembering is part of its duty, the first step through which to renew its own meaning. Paying homage to those who knew how to lead it to the present is a duty; it is recognizing the value of a history that cannot be ignored. Yet, even as it preserves its roots, it broadens its perspective to welcome new viewpoints, in the name of a more open and inclusive character that ideally reflects the model of a society toward which to strive.