America. Land of the Free. Cradle of glamour, a style difficult to define and yet unmistakable. In Breakfast at Tiffany's, director Blake Edwards gives us an immediate snapshot: it is dawn, Audrey Hepburn, in a Givenchy evening dress, jewels and flashy sunglasses, gazes into the window of Tiffany & Co. on Fifth Avenue, holding a coffee and croissant. A cult scene in which feelings of nostalgia, sweetness, ambition and longing melt into one. It was 1961, America was experiencing an economic boom, confidence was high and jewelry, like a mirror, would reflect its aspirations. In an article in JCK magazine, historian Joyce Jonas reports that the ‘50s ushered in a more cheerful national climate. Christian Dior's ultra-feminine New Look inspired a more whimsical moment in jewelry, marked by huge precious stones and diamonds that, for the first time, were also worn during the day. It was a time of great prosperity and, as a result, jewelry was extraordinary. It was the pinnacle age in American jewelry design: manufacturers copied the jewelry of the maharajas, and women wore enormous, fancy necklaces with big rubies, emeralds and diamonds. It was all very glamorous. The lights of Hollywood, the charisma of the divas, the sophisticated femininity of Truman Capote's muses, and an all-American democratic creativity fanned the flames of that iconic aesthetic. On Tatler.com, Vivienne Becker — jewelry historian and award-winning journalist — gives us an in-depth look at the long history of American glamour and its relationship with jewelry.
14 karat yellow gold14 karat yellow gold Georgina Link chain with dog clip clasp, Yvonne beaded chain, diamond star heartlockets and diamond heart stripe locket, HZ Collection, Ashley Zhang.
She mentions the Sicilian aristocrat, Fulco di Verdura, and the Frenchman, Jean Schlumberger, European creatives who, in the late ‘50s and early ‘60s, nurtured American modernist taste with Baroque and Rococo influences, winning over the most influential figures of the time, such as Diana Vreeland, Millicent Rogers and Babe Paley. She also recalls that in the 1960s, David Webb overturned the rules with his sculptural and gutsy pieces, much-loved by Elizabeth Taylor and Jackie Kennedy, while in the ‘70s and ‘80s, it was Elsa Peretti and Paloma Picasso who broadened horizons, revolutionizing the way women's jewelry was conceived. According to Becker, the latest incarnation of American glamour can be attributed to layering, the art of casually superimposing different pieces of jewelry. Born decades ago, on the West Coast — as early as the mid-twentieth century, icons like Babe Paley played with strands of pearls and maxi bracelets to be layered on the wrist — and now revived by niche brands like Foundrae and Brent Neale for daily wear. A spontaneous and personalized form of expression that reflects the freedom of American thought. Thought that continues to exert a highly powerful imaginative force but which is currently facing a complex context, marked by political tensions, new trade challenges and a macroeconomic instability that is putting pressure on the entire jewelry industry. The tariffs introduced by the United States, in effect at the time of writing (1st of August) — 10% on imports from almost all countries, 39% for Switzerland, 25% for India, 15% for the European Union — come on top of rising gold prices and increasing geopolitical uncertainty. In such an unclear landscape, what will become of American glamour? Will it manage to remain true to its progressive nature? And how are American contemporary jewelry brands, heirs to such a fascinating aesthetic, doing? Those who produce locally can seize the opportunity to strengthen the supply chain, contain prices and promote origin. Those who rely on international production, on the other hand, are forced to review strategies and processes to cope with rising costs.
Gold rings with diamonds,Gold rings with diamonds,mother of pearls and enamel details; goldand diamonds Zaha bracelet, Zahn-Z.
Of the testimonies collected, New York-based brand Zahn-Z has not been directly impacted: The tariffs have not directly affected Zahn-Z, as all our pieces are produced locally in New York. I personally make each design using CAD, which gives me full control of the process and allows us to remain flexible, says designer and founder Hiba Husayni. That said, I source my gems through U.S. suppliers who, in turn, work with international partners, and are therefore certainly more exposed to the ripple effects of global trade policies. While I have not been personally affected, I am well aware of how quickly the scene can change, especially for independent brands like mine. In many ways, these pressures are reinforcing the value of rigorous production models and transparent sourcing. For me, American glamour today is not about excess, but about intention, integrity and the ability to find beauty within limits. Seal & Scribe, a micro-firm rooted in the United States, is keeping a close eye on the evolving economic and political situation, particularly the soaring price of gold due to domestic political instability in the United States and, given the unpredictability of the current scenario, we do not foresee any changes in the short term. We are actually more concerned about fluctuations in the price of gold. The brand prides itself on offering creations “to hand down” made predominantly of 18-karat gold and platinum. We are evaluating alternatives, but in all likelihood, we will continue to use the precious metals that have always set us apart: in fact, our clientele expects high-carat gold, and while we can offer platinum as a substitute for white gold, there is no really viable alternative to high-carat yellow gold. In order not to compromise on quality, it was decided to introduce a six-month, interest-free instalment plan on the site through the Affirm platform. A costly solution for the brand, which pays a 9% commission on the service, but deemed necessary to maintain affordability without sacrificing standards. On the creative side, current political events have also influenced the brand's orientation. We are not guided by trends, but we are fully aware of what is happening in our country. The capsule collections we are working on are inspired by themes such as protection, universal love, and strength. More than style, it is content that reflects the tensions of the present.
Gold chains, pendants and rings withGold chains, pendants and rings withdiamonds and precious stones, Ophelia Eve.
Our desire is that the Seal & Scribe jewelry wearer can feel protected, strong, safe and loved. For fledgling brands like Ophelia Eve, the uncertain context has been a starting point rather than an obstacle: As an emerging brand, we started out with a clear intention from the beginning, say Samantha and Beth Yorn, who founded the New York-based brand in 2024. Rising costs and global uncertainty have only strengthened our commitment to core values: producing in the United States with artisans and a team we can work closely with, and creating pieces that are both personal and enduring. As New Yorkers, we have focused more than ever on our identity, making designs that reflect both tradition and local provenance, rather than chasing scalability or overseas production. We try to indulge the strong desire for connection and transparency. “Made in New York” resonates as a value. It means intention, craftsmanship and a sense of place. Equally aware is young Ashley Zhang from the Manhattan-based brand of the same name, where she offers a fine selection of contemporary jewelry made from recycled and traceable materials. Rising gold prices will inevitably reflect on customers, Zhang says. But we will continue to see growth in demand for vintage jewelry and diamonds because they are more affordable and sustainable. Consumers are increasingly looking for connection, even in jewelry, as is already the case in fashion. Gone are the aspirations of a confident and hopeful society. The time for easy-to-sell promises is over. American jewelry is making measured and far-sighted choices, aimed at a more critical and aware public, rewriting the rules of a new wave, still driven by a progressive spirit, but more authentic and mature.
