The New Geography of Jewelry

It was 1986 when Marina B opened her first space on Madison Avenue. Now, the brand is returning to that very street with the opening of a new boutique scheduled for April, marking a new chapter that celebrates the house’s history and evolution. The space is designed as a precious jewel box, showcasing both past jewelry and new interpretations of a continuously evolving style. A blend of memory and modernity, set in an exclusive and refined environment that reflects the bold vision of a designer who has fearlessly shaped her identity. But Marina B’s return to Madison Avenue is not an isolated case. In February, the Financial Times published an article on the phenomenon titled “Why Madison Avenue is the new ‘it’ jewellery destination in New York.” The street has become New York’s new luxury hotspot, thanks to a mix of more accessible rents and an exclusive clientele residing in the heart of the Upper East Side. Here, established and emerging brands are opening boutiques that step away from tourist frenzy to offer a more intimate and sophisticated experience.
“Retail, in any major city, is cyclical: in Paris, too, sometimes you need to be on the Champs-Élysées, then everyone leaves, and then they return,” said Hélène Poulit-Duquesne, CEO of Boucheron, in the same article. Boucheron opened a boutique at 747 Madison Avenue last September. “Over the past year or so, Madison has returned to being a reference point, with Hermès moving its flagship store there and Van Cleef & Arpels opening a boutique. It’s a street where New York’s wealthiest come to shop.”
FoundRae, known for its symbolic and customizable jewelry, opened a new space at 777 Madison Avenue: an environment inspired by Diana Vreeland’s iconic red apartment on Park Avenue, full of curious objects and eclectic inspiration. On the second floor of number 1000, Sophie Bille Brahe has brought the poetic minimalism of the north, with her delicate floral designs. Coming in May at number 743, Jessica McCormack will open the doors to her universe of diamonds, Victorian and Georgian influences, and refined craftsmanship.

What’s happening on Madison Avenue is echoing elsewhere. In New York, Paris, Tokyo, Los Angeles, and Milan, independent brands are focusing on physical retail, investing in spaces that provide an authentic and engaging experience. While e-commerce and the metaverse represent the future for some, for others, real progress clearly lies in recovering a more human and tangible dimension.
Spinelli Kilcollin, for example, has opened its first flagship store at 91 Crosby Street – New York. A boutique, yes, but also an art gallery where the shopping experience transforms into a sensory journey, with sculptures, unique materials, and surfaces that tell the brand’s story. Clients can co-create their own piece of jewelry with the design team, becoming part of something truly unique and unrepeatable.

In Milan, this April saw the opening of Tiffany & Co.’s new store in the prestigious Palazzo Taverna, a neoclassical historic building constructed in 1835 and one of the finest aristocratic residences on Via Monte Napoleone. “A destination of luxury and discovery, our new store on Via Montenapoleone invites Milan to experience Tiffany & Co. in a completely new way. Designed by renowned architect Peter Marino and inspired by The Landmark in New York, it’s a cultural hub full of art, craftsmanship, and hospitality. It features the world’s largest selection of creations from the Tiffany Archives,” said Anthony Ledru, President and Chief Executive Officer of Tiffany & Co. The store is Tiffany’s largest in Europe and celebrates the brand’s nearly 200-year history.

Equally exemplary is the “physical” strategy of traditional Italian brands like FerriFirenze, which has chosen to renew its concept of exclusivity through pop-ups — mobile theaters of luxury moving through the world’s most iconic cities: London, Hong Kong, Cyprus, Bangkok. These events, hosted in prestigious venues like the Mandarin Oriental in Dubai or the Four Seasons in Hong Kong, offer a unique opportunity to enter the world of FerriFirenze and immerse oneself in the Florentine heritage that defines every creation.
So, real experiences — thankfully — are still appealing. The boutique becomes the heart of a privileged relationship between creators and those seeking something different. While progress is increasingly virtual, those investing in physical retail are choosing to rediscover a slower, more authentic, and more intimate rhythm. A return to human connection as a way to awaken and nurture our multisensory capacities

Spinelli Kilcollin flagship store at 91 Crosby Street – New York

Pop-up Store Ferri Firenze