Hermès: The Iconic Chaîne d’Ancre on Show
In London, from July 17 to 27, the unmistakable chain – an iconic symbol of the French maison – will be on display with 60 pieces of jewelry that reinterpret its design
The latest reinterpretation by Pierre Hardy of Hermès’ iconic Chaîne d'ancre anchor chain, currently starring in collections inspired by the vintage charm of a motif that has been successfully reproposed ever since its creation in the 1930s. The creative director of the French maison has updated this signature designed in 1938 by Robert Dumas, a member of the Hermès family and president at the time, who created the first sketch based on a ship's anchor chain. A motif that immediately became recognizable, identifying the brand with a transversality that, even then, combined a sporty touch with a certain elegant and sophisticated linearity given by the central reinforcing bar, typical of a “trawling chain.” One might speak of a “useful beauty,” where the oval of the links, the round section of the wires, and the affiliation between solids and voids have both an aesthetic and functional purpose. For Pierre Hardy, the Chaîne d'ancre link is a permanent creative stimulus, always the same yet versatile, ever ready for an array of variations. The link becomes a motif, the clasp plays a leading role, the chain becomes colored and precious: in white or rose gold, set with black spinel or blue sapphire, paved with diamonds and embellished with a magnificent central stone. It also leaves its mark on Hermès' other métiers: silk, leather, footwear, handbags. There is no accessory that over the years has not been “invaded” by the unmistakable chain.
To celebrate this mainstay of the maison, an exhibition has been devised as is a tribute to the talent of Dumas from the past and Hardy of the present in managing to revive something that is almost a century old in a new way every time. Sixty jewels are on display in an ocean world voyage experience illuminated by soft lighting. Visitors are welcomed into a midnight blue atmosphere and the intensity of a cinematic projection of a sea in perpetual motion. The jewelry seems to fluctuate while the soundtrack, composed by Irène Drésel, creates a dreamy background. After stops in Paris, Zurich and Milan, the traveling Chaîne d'ancre exhibition will continue its tour in London from July 17 to 27 at the Hermès store in New Bond Street.
To celebrate this mainstay of the maison, an exhibition has been devised as is a tribute to the talent of Dumas from the past and Hardy of the present in managing to revive something that is almost a century old in a new way every time. Sixty jewels are on display in an ocean world voyage experience illuminated by soft lighting. Visitors are welcomed into a midnight blue atmosphere and the intensity of a cinematic projection of a sea in perpetual motion. The jewelry seems to fluctuate while the soundtrack, composed by Irène Drésel, creates a dreamy background. After stops in Paris, Zurich and Milan, the traveling Chaîne d'ancre exhibition will continue its tour in London from July 17 to 27 at the Hermès store in New Bond Street.