Vicenzaoro Highlights, January 2026: Genius and Awareness

The vintage jewelry and watch market continues to amaze: in recent weeks, international auction houses have registered record figures for iconic pieces. The most striking include a rare Patek Philippe ref. 2499, sold for over 3 million euros, and an Art Deco necklace by Van Cleef & Arpels that went for 1.2 million. Signs that confirm the growing attraction to the historical and cultural value of timeless creations, in a context where collectors and investors view vintage items as a safe haven and a symbol of identity. In this scenario, VO Vintage confirms its status as a point of reference for enthusiasts and professionals, thanks also to a packed calendar of talks where visitors can engage in valuable direct discussions with experts and spokespersons from the “second-hand” world. In particular, this edition, which began with a significant 25% increase in exhibitors, hosted the States General of Vintage for the first time, an event at which internationally renowned dealers such as Marco Cesari, Andrea Foffi and Stefano Mazzariol—also attending the show with a selection of rare pieces—conversed with leading sector journalists Michele Mengoli (Watch Insanity), Jacopo Giudici and Bruno Bergamaschi (Watchouse), highlighting the growing trend toward rare and niche timepieces, aided by social media that attracts a young, high-spending audience with an eye for originality. Another regular presence in this parallel world of Vicenzaoro is Ugo Pancani, consultant and FHH Certified Freelance Trainer at the Fondation Haute Horlogerie in Geneva, who in recent days has animated the scene with insightful reflections on truly unique case histories, presenting his new book entitled The History of Italian Watchmaking. From the 14th Century to the Rebirth of Made in Italy. In it, he retraces Italy’s role in the development of timepieces, interweaving art, science and craftsmanship, from Dante to Leonardo and Galileo. The link between the great minds of the past and the new scenarios developing in both haute horlogerie and jewelry is undoubtedly the technological approach, which today, as in the past, enables the creation of new design solutions. Proof of this can be found in the more than 160 exhibitors at T.Gold, the industry’s high-tech hub, where for several seasons the latest mainstream trends have included 3D printing, additive manufacturing and AI. Artificial Intelligence was precisely the focus of Coded Couture, the talk by Trendvision Jewellery + Forecasting led by Paola De Luca, which revealed how biometric data, blockchain and complex geometries now play an important role in shaping jewelry and exploring new frontiers that were unimaginable just five years ago. In this process of continuous evolution in jewelry manufacturing, however, there remains a strong awareness of the need to strenuously defend what is most precious to jewelry companies—whether family-run businesses or multinational corporations—namely, their heritage.

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