Sarabande: The Incubator for Tomorrow’s Talents

Here are six profiles of people who are each quite different from one another. Six creative people that aim to express their unconventional way of making jewelry. This has come about as well thanks to something that has changed their professional prospects: a scholarship offered by the foundation (named for the brilliant British designer Lee Alexander McQueen, who passed away in 2010) with workshops, exhibitions, and meetings with artists and experts in fashion, business, and jewelry—teaching them how to turn a dream into a concrete endeavor.

Castro Smith
I began my jewelry career as an apprentice working for one of London’s biggest engraving sporting trophies and plaques firms, R.H. Wilkins. I learned to cut and engrave, which I found easy to adapt to my previous drawing skills. I was discovered by Dickon Bowden at the Dover Street Market. Dickon introduced me to Sarabande. I went from working in my bedroom to having my own workshop space, and attending talks by artists like Nick Knight. In the next future, I intend to deepen the sculpture and engraving of glass, which I am passionate about on a recent trip to Japan.

Charlotte Garnett
Having been focused on autobiographical painting at school, I started to realize I could convey my messages with more lasting effect through 3D dimensions. With jewelry, I like the idea of wearing what I create. My Pocket Pebbles and Fiddle Jewelry lines provide discrete self-soothing tools promoting mindfulness techniques and subtly reinforcing the mind. After winning the Bright Young Gems competition at Central St. Martins, I showed my pieces at IJL London where I met Shaun Leane, one of Sarabande’s patrons. Sarabande has been a home to me, where I’ve improved my skills, gained more confidence in myself and prepared for the real world of design. The multidisciplinary approach has allowed me to work alongside all kinds of artists, and to learn about the craft from professionals like Trino Verkade (who collaborated with Lee McQueen from 1994 to 2010, ndr). 

Ben Hawkins
I was infatuated by the process of starting with raw materials and turning them into artwork using nothing but hand tools and craftsmanship. So, as soon as I could leave school, I applied for the Foundation Programme at the Goldsmiths’ Centre, the best place to learn the craft. While I was there, I had an inspirational design tutor who made me aware of designing something before I made it. After school, I started my own bespoke company, which is when I was accepted into the Sarabande programme. That is when all of my barriers, when it came to design and company aspirations, really shattered. I was exposed to another world and will never be the same again for it. This at only 20 years old! My plans now are to explore what can be done using new and old techniques to make pieces that are designed in a ways that were prevented previously due to production barriers…and to tap into a market of people that not only appreciate the craft, but aren’t afraid to be fearless and wear designs that are less conservative.

 

Coline Assade
«I knew from a young age that I wanted to work in a creative field but I decided on jewelry a bit later on. To me, a piece of jewelry is a powerful, intimate and almost magical object. I have always been interested in both design and craft and I can work on both with jewelry. There are so many possibilities, material and techniques to explore, I find it really exciting. My aim is to tell stories through beautiful objects and I don’t think there is a better medium than jewelry to do so. I discovered Sarabande in my final year of studies. I thought it was amazing and really loved the idea of a creative community. I focus on handmade pieces that are playful and unconventional yet still traditional. I would love to push further my wax carving technique and enameling to integrate more colors in my work. I am starting to research for my next collection at the moment. My dream is to expand and be able to keep my creative freedom. I would love to launch a collection each year and develop other lines like an engagement line for example. I would be happy with more collaborations with fashion designers, artists or costume designers. My aim is to create a strong brand and think every detail around it.»

Andrea Dritschel
«From a young age, I have always loved creating 3D objects, however it wasn’t until I came to art school (Duncan of Jordanstone) and ventured into the jewelry workshop that I realized this was my true passion. It was in this environment that I could use machines to make things I never thought I could, bringing my sketches to life through metals and other alternative materials. With Sarabande, I’ve been able to explore different materials like, for example, with the Swarovski workshop. I was very excited to have this opportunity as I had previously seen the work of Alexander McQueen at exhibitions in New York and London. I always admired the imagination and creativity in his designs. My jewelry is about experiences and imagination. A large part of my work is focused on the connection between the person and object. For an object to be personalized, I believe that it must hold secrets of which the wearer is only aware of. This playful connection provides a bond with object and person. Furthermore, smart materials— thermochromics and jesmonite—allow for this connection to evolve through there continuously changing state.»

Esna Su
«I realized I enjoyed contemporary jewelry at design shows like Collect Goldsmith Jewelry Fair. I began making jewelry as a hobby in 2009. I then took Art and Design Foundation in Richmond Adult Community College and that followed with a Jewelry Design (BA) degree at Central Saint Martins . My body of work subtly explores the issues of identity and memory and how these are shaken in the context of political instability. I envelop my pieces with heritage, as I try to use traditional Turkish techniques of weaving, twining, and crochet. Yet they mutate into wearable sculptures as I translate them in my own language. Almost a continuation of the body, their organic structure gives form to unseen layers of emotions, memories and sensations. These emanate from the crafted paper rush, vegetable tanned leather and patterned fabric.»