From sculptures to jewelry, exclusively in line with the fluidity of forms. A constant connection between the object, space and the body, in an experiential interplay in which Brazilian designer Ana Khouri champions the idea that high jewelry remains a pillar of the twenty-first century. In a marketplace full of “blings” of various genres, for Ana Khouri the only way to create something truly new is to create something very personal. «I was not born a jewelry designer. I was a sculptor and only over time did I understand that if I wanted to set myself apart, I would have to think of a new, free form of art, devoid of excessiveness and returned to its pure state. My way of understanding jewelry starts with that. An original approach that isn’t inspired by anything or anyone. I don’t want to simply make beautiful, well-made jewels. I want a jewel that makes an impression on me, that strikes me, that people react to viscerally even when just looking at it. I want to offer an experience.»
Ana Khouri was born in Brazil, but lives in New York. She studied fine arts, specializing in sculpture at the Fundaçao Armando Alvares Penteado in São Paolo. That is when Ana began critically looking at jewelry and sculpture, feeling that her pieces would have to "dialogue" directly with the body. Only her rich artistic background would have allowed her to explore innovation in jewelry. «My idea of jewelry goes beyond ornamental decoration. It is art and sculpture that explores a myriad of forms, translating into a balance that connects with the body. My distinctive trait is the search for the perfect form.» It is a way for a jewelry culture to distinguish itself from the more common jewelry "system" and achieve a form of jewelry design that focuses on fluidity with space and its vastness.
The Jewels Now-Ana Khouri show, which was held at Phillips Art Auctions in New York last fall, further demonstrated this trait of hers. «It was my first time at Phillips. I showed fifty-five high-jewelry pieces and ten were created for the auction house; there were also sculptures I created with the essence of my jewels in mind. An installation to be experienced organically, to ensure visitors understand how I work from close up. I want it to be known that my high jewelry is not about collections, but only one-of-a- kind pieces that have a soul. I want it to be ethereal, I don’t want a jewel that is perceived and experienced just as a beautiful object. I need to give meaning to everything I do. I love connections and the relationships with customers help me a lot with this. As happened recently in Paris at White Bird, a special event that fosters direct connections with those who choose and love my jewels.»