David Warren: New Challenges are coming

David Warren, former Senior International Director and and Head of Jewels Middle East of Christie’s is appointed CEO of Moussaieff Jewellers. Here is his point of view on how to live and interpret the jewel of yesterday and today. «Jewelry is an accompaniment to fashion and high couture, perfectly finishing an outfit, often creating a statement. An early 19th century amethyst collet necklace set in warm yellow gold may give a richness of colour that compliments a contemporary mauve or purple jacket, blouse, or dress. Black and white themed jewels from the Art Deco period would perfectly compliment any black and white dress combination regardless of period. Antique jewels often inspire contemporay designs. One style of Indian stone setting from the 17th century, seen on jewels, jewellery objects, dagger handles and boxes, was carefully conceived not to show the gold setting edges of the many stones placed side by side. Could this have been the original inspiration for the remarkable invisible setting? The beautiful rounded forms of ancient Saxon and Roman gold jewels, can sometimes be seen in Retro jewels from the 1950s. Indeed the very meaning of the word Retro is - “similar to styles of the past”. Jewels have historically documented social and cultural change. Belle Époque was an era of long flowing dresses, where jewels replicated this femininity. All this radically changed as the Great War swept accross Europe and the call to arms necessitated a far more practical dress code, and a harsh angular and geometric jewellery form. This was the birth of the Art Deco period. 1969 heralded Neil Armstrong's giant leap for mankind, giving rise to a craze for rocket designs and lunar jewels. In the same way, Halley’s comet, seen every 75 years has also inspired comet jewels.»