Isabella Traglio: How to be Relevant for the Future

Creativity, innovation, sustainability. Challenges and opportunities for the future of Made in Italy jewelry. Giving her contribution to the value of this topic was Isabella Traglio, Deputy Director General of Vhernier which, since 1984, has represented the excellence of 100% Made in Italy jewelry thanks to an initial vision that has always placed its bets on the partnership between art and craftsmanship, sculpture and the goldsmith’s trade. «Creativity is the cornerstone and main challenge, not only for jewelry companies, but for our entire country in general, where the competitive edge, compared to the rest of the world, has always been based on this supremacy. The eternally beautiful is part of our DNA: and, this is how art, in a very natural way, becomes a great reference. A jewel designed and manufactured in Italy is undoubtedly an expression of the culture from which it originates. The story of Vhernier, which stems from the dream of creating "the jewel that was not yet there" by drawing inspiration from art, is direct evidence of this. That pioneering vision has allowed us to innovate in a sector that is among the most refractory to change, without ever compromising on quality, which must be exceptional. Because to face the challenges of the future, in terms of creativity, it is crucial to propose relevant jewels. That is, creations that interpret the spirit of the time, bypassing that conventional dualism that on one hand put the jewel for the day and on the other those of special occasions. Today jewels must be appropriate for multiple contexts: multi-occasionality is a key function. And this can be achieved with innovation, in shapes and materials. We experiment with sculptural forms, with Zaha Hadid's architecture, with certain works by Brancusi, and Anish Kapoor in mind. And by mixing traditional jewelry materials with ebony, titanium, aluminum: combinations that make a jewel not to be taken for granted, and appropriate for different situations. This is how a jewel finds its raison d'être today. Any creative impulse must then deal with reality: to be relevant, a jewel must have a perfect fit today, it must be wearable. This is an element in which we believe a lot, so much so that the theme of ergonomics is always at the center of our creativity. Another aspect is that, to create a relevant jewel, it is necessary to exercise a watchful eye on everything that happens around us and be able to grasp and interpret the transformations taking place. For example, the non-binary choice of the new generations: today it is of paramount importance to give anyone the opportunity to be themselves, without the obligation of having to decide between conventional genres. A belief that is evident in our recent Calla collection that does not distinguish between men's and women's jewelry. All choices that, once undertaken, must be pursued with great rigor and consistency. And above all, avoiding giving in to the temptations of easy shortcuts: building a brand identity takes a long time.»