New Designs, One Gem: The Pearl
Six contemporary brands reveal the new dynamics of this extraordinary oceanic treasure, emancipated from its conventional role as a status symbol to embody innovation and coolness
«With their lustrous and delicate beauty, pearls possess the unique quality of instilling considerable feminine essence. The mere presence of pearls tends to enhance any outfit, from an elegant look to evening wear and the most casual attire. Once predominantly worn by older individuals, the younger generations have now embraced pearls as part of their everyday style, superimposing them brilliantly with different jewelry. Their appeal lies in their ability to evoke a sense of classic refinement, transcending passing trends. Contemporary designers have skillfully reinvented traditional pearl jewelry, incorporating these radiant gems into pieces that capture attention, marking a dynamic evolution that seamlessly blends classic beauty with cutting-edge style.»
- Nabiha Sabzvari, Founder and Creative Director of Moushe Designs
«Thanks to their timeless air, pearls have been synonymous of reserved elegance. However, in recent years, this perception has been challenged by contemporary designers who have started using them in unconventional and antithetical ways. They have almost become a symbol of rebellion – making people question centuries-old preconceptions. Pearls have a softness about them, a feminine radiance and luminescence, which I like to combine with something unexpected – a cold, stark, matt grey.»
- Rahul Jhaveri, Co-founder and Creative Director of Studio Renn
«A simple pair of pearl earrings will last the test of time and trends. While the perception of pearls has evolved over time, I think pearls remain a classic and timeless must. In the past, pearls were more of a status symbol and only worn on special occasions but today's many modern iterations see them incorporated into everyday wear. They can now be seen in hair accessories, on handbags and even on clothing so pearls no longer appear as a status symbol. As a classic and timeless gem, pearls continue to convey the value of history, days gone by and timelessness.»
- Grace Lee, Founder and Creative Director of Grace Lee
«Pearls are now versatile expressions of personal style, far from their historical role as symbols of social status. Hirotaka's design aims to promote a sense of freedom, which is why we often focus on layering and an asymmetrical aesthetic. The intention is to unite contrasting values, infusing a casual spirit into the creations to make them stand out. We deviate from the traditional vision, avoiding excessive elegance and overly romantic connotations often associated to pearls and diamonds, to create pieces that fit seamlessly into everyday life, transcending the historical exclusivity of pearls.»
- Hirotaka Inoue, Founder and Creative Director
«In my opinion, pearls are the utmost in sophistication. These days they can be worn much like casually wearing a cashmere sweater. Japan is among the places where they are used the most. Traditionally considered as a formal piece of jewelry only worn on occasions such as weddings or funerals, today's approach has become more modern and an increasing number of people wear them in everyday contexts. I believe that the style of my creations inspires my customers and contributes to this evolving trend. We are, however, facing a crisis in the sector. Supply and demand do not coincide. The team at my atelier in Japan is working hard to source pearls with reasonable prices which are now skyrocketing, similar to those of gold.»
- George Inaki Root, CEO and Creative Director of Milamore Jewelry
«After being loved for decades for their formality, pearls have now acquired a certain practicality becoming, in my opinion, much more beautiful. They are currently being reinvented in the best possible way and are not taken so seriously. In the past, they were given a sophisticated status, but nowadays the atmosphere is completely different. I love to see men wearing them. They have become more inclusive, breaking away from their traditional value and opening up to everyone. They are experiencing a veritable moment of reinvention. I think their appeal lies in being an affordable choice for fine jewelry and versatile enough to incorporate into a modern wardrobe.»
- Katherine Kim, Founder and Creative Director of KatKim