Gucci: On the Olympus of Watch-Making

A new chapter for Gucci that, to mark the anniversary of its first 100 years, takes another step in high range watches. Maurizio Pisanu, Gucci Watches and Jewelry Worldwide Managing Director, explains


An important anniversary and a turning point in watches with the introduction of an in-house mechanism. Where does the need for this step forward come from? The launching of this new line is a courageous step for Gucci as well as a natural continuation of its watchmaking journey. The brand has always embraced change and innovation since it became the first luxury fashion house to create Swiss Made watches in 1972. Now, almost 50 years later, the company is ready to take its watch collection to the next level, uniting unique and distinctive design with the in-depth knowledge of Swiss watch-making engineering techniques.
Where does 25H model stand in the Olympus of high range watches? The Gucci 25H is our first in-house watch-making caliber, the GG 727.25. Creating an internal movement is a huge result and is something that we are extremely proud of. It shows that our highly talented team of watch-makers (located in Switzerland) are able to create watches of great quality, arousing the interest and curiosity of customers and collectors alike. Gucci’s high horlogerie has been redesigned in order to find a connection between the words luxury and soul.
How did you do it? Our aim was to create something that had never been done before: unite Swiss watch-making techniques with Gucci’s sensational design heritage in line with the aesthetics of our Creative Director, Alessandro Michele. Consequently, in technical terms, the watches are skillfully built and have enormous personality. A fascinating combination that offers our customers something unique.
McKinsey’s recent report entitled The State of Watches says that, from 2019 to 2025, the DTC model will represent 30% of all annual sales. We have always used different channels and new technologies to reach our customers and we will continue with this approach in the future. Digital is still an important means and we have a lot of projects in the pipeline. Contact with customers is always important because it allows us to understand their expectations and to create products that let them express their own personal style. Due to the circumstances, in order to launch our high horologerie, we presented the collection though a digital event but the pieces will shortly be available in our boutique in Place Vendôme in Paris and some selected Gucci stores.
In which direction is the market evolving? The watch industry is in constant evolution. Innovation is the key element for differentiation on every level, and quality is the distinctive element that makes products exclusive and interesting for collectors. If, on the one side, there is a desire for research, new materials and techniques, on the other, the appeal for traditional, high-range watches is still strong. There is almost something magical and unique in the engineering of these items, especially when it has complications like the tourbillon. Their fascination goes way beyond trends and has managed to resist difficult moments like those we have just gone through: that is why, I believe, there will always be room for high-range watches.

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