The Portraits Project: 4 designers rethink jewelry
Four interpreters of contemporary jewelry, four styles that speak of new horizons and just as many Fine Jewelry challenges
The ‘Portraits’ project welcomes the voices of a group of independent designers, the representatives of a renewed stylistic virtuosity made up of decorum, irony, spirituality and creative risk. From Turkey to Greece, from New York to Brazil, the bejeweled portraits in this harmonious portfolio summarize the artistic capacity to devise a new way of making jewelry. There is the oneiric, almost Gothic face of Turkish designer Aida Bergsen, who has taken possession of a concept of decorative and timeless richness, and the perky and lively design of Brazilian Carla Amorim. Also present is the spiritual jewelry of designer Netali Nissim, that all-protective eye presented from a glamour viewpoint, as well as the tortuous abstractionism of the Greek, Evan, who slips into this photograph of precious portraits with splendid fluidity. A game dominated by aesthetic visions that are miles apart, but that, in its own way, is united by the desire to speak out loud through chameleon-like creativity.
Aida Bergsen
«Jewelry that overflows with meaning and high artisan value is never out of fashion since it is able to express the personality of the person wearing it.» Aida Bergsen, designer and sculptor based in Istanbul, advocates a particular aesthetic language in which substance and form chat together spiritedly to generate highly detailed jewelry, animated by different inspirations. Rings, bracelets, earrings and pendants are authentic miniature sculptures that emulate the shapes of nature with mythological heroes and the sinuous lines of the female body. «I try to re-interpret the handcrafted values of jewelry with a contemporary approach. I like to bring a game of light and shade to life, in order to capture the shape in its entirety,» says the designer who enhances all her creations by using top-quality materials. «I adore using yellow and pink gold, black rhodium and oxidized silver, combining them with rubies, diamonds — preferably rose-cut — and emeralds. But I must admit to having a weakness for corals and opals. »
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Carla Amorim
«I always wear a rosary on my finger, next to my wedding band, to protect what means the most to me, my family. » Carla Amorim is a Brazilian designer with strong traditional values who instills the power and beauty of her native country in her creations. Nature in all its forms, the geometric architecture of Brasilia — her home city forged from the wonderful geometric lines of Oscar Niemeyer —and her faith are the main sources of inspiration from which her jewelry comes to life. «Timeless, feminine, elegant jewelry made with stones and precious materials, » she says. «I love to use gold, diamonds, emeralds, sapphires and tourmalines. » Convinced that some jewelry «can be worn for both important and daily events,» Carla generates creations that celebrate female beauty in a contemporary manner. Aloe Vera, Falling Leaves, Moon Valley, Sugar Cane are the names of just a few of her items that evoke the exuberant flora of Brazil and testify the designer's great passion for the diverse cultures of her country.
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Evan
Creating is a meditative process for Evan Tsoukalas who, before making a new collection, grips each stone in his hands to feel the energy and understand how to best give them value. «Every collection I create is like a love story. Deciding which stones to use, discovering the origins and history, makes me fall in love every time,» says the Greek designer, who has a lengthy jewelry tradition behind him. His grandfather handed the art of repairing watches down to him, while his mother showed him how every ring can be unique, thus passing on respect for precious things and the importance of every single detail. Today, his brand, Evan, is synonymous of dream and enchantment, two ideas well captured in the contemporary design of jewelry created to make every woman special. «I love to design and create jewels to offer something unique to women. I believe that every diamond is unique, just like every woman. » And if diamonds combined with gold are a constant in his creations, the designer reveals his greatest passion: «The opal has stolen my heart, and I think that it will soon become a much-coveted gem for everyone. »
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Netali Nissim
«Timeless elegance in the form of contemporary jewels. » Netali Nissim is a young designer with a European flair. Born and raised in Milan, she grew up learning the art of gemology from her father, one of the field’s top diamond dealers. Her jewels stand out for their special blend of glamour, spirituality and high quality, reflecting the designer’s deep connection to nature and spirituality. «The eye takes in the aesthetic while the spirit takes in the deeper meaning. » Every line is inspired by culture, fashion and travel, resulting in glamorous, versatile jewelry, suitable for everyday. Worn individually or easily layered, the designs are both delicate and high-impact. They are made to accompany the wearer on her path, to feel peace, clarity, and a deep connection to everyone’s vision. And as Netali Nissim herself says: «that journey leads to the greatest destination of all. »
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