Survival of the fittest

The market operators are the real fulcrum of the luxury world. We talked to some authorities in the field. 

Larry Pelzel, Neiman Marcus / USA — Vice President of Precious Jewels

When you are looking for new styles and new designs to add to your lines, are you influenced by consumer demand or do you actually try to influence it yourself?

We pay very close attention to the trends our fashion office shares with us and try to determine which ones our customers will react to. Many of our core customers want to be current, but not way out there. Occasionally, when we feel very positive about a new

Angela O'Keefe

design or collection, we will "double down" and partner with marketing. We will work together to develop a total company promotional effort that will ultimately create awareness and demand for it.

Fashion and tradition. How do you assess these two elements in contemporary jewelry?

We have a lot of discussions regarding these two elements. When working with precious metals and gem stones that demand precious prices, we tend to err on the side of jewelry that is timeless with a personal spin. Our associates know our very savvy customers’ tastes and their tolerance levels.  They will let them know how much is too much. We tend to let our designer jewelry division take on more of the true fashion elements, while our precious division plays it safer and directed more towards wearable heirlooms.

From the red carpets to the shop windows. Do you think that, by wearing determined items of jewelry, celebrities cause consumer demand to grow?

For the most part, our core customer is not that influenced by what celebrities wear on the red carpet. However, we do believe the younger fashion audience does follow the trend items celebrities wear and are influenced by them.

Which are the key concepts that a buyer must always bear in mind when going to an international trade fair in search of new styles and designs to propose to his customers?

Our buyers are constantly being bombarded by designers and manufacturers that say “this would be perfect for Neiman Marcus”. They also get to review the newest and the hottest items at any trade show they attend (domestic or international). Every now and then, there will be an item of collection that is truly completely different and very unique. The first thought is, WOW, this is great. But, they have to take a step back and ask themselves is our customer ready for it? So many times, we get too excited about things that take seasons for the market to catch up to.

Which markets do you think will be the most promising for jewelry brands in 2016?

The very high end ‘collectibles’, precious  gems, colored diamonds, important pearls, and estate (one of a kind) pieces will continue to be a focus. Also we see our customer wanting beautiful jewelry that can be worn on a daily basis. Discerning collectors want ‘go-to’ pieces they can count on and mix and match with a number of other items and appropriate for many occasions.

 

Federica Montelli, LA RINASCENTE / MILAN — Buying Manager Shoes, Jewelry & Watches

When you are looking for new styles and new designs to add to your lines, are you influenced by consumer demand or do you actually try to influence it yourself?

As Buying Manger I have to be constantly aware of what clients actually need, it is

Van Cleef & Arpels

therefore crucial to have a good-sized portion of purchases based on previous sales and requests. However, it is equally important to guide new tastes and preferences. Inserting new brands, inventing new themes and trends is the most exciting part of the job.

Fashion and tradition. How do these two elements figure within contemporary jewelry?

In retail, as always, it is vital to strike a balance between new ideas and tradition. One of the most important trends within fashion in general, is “rediscovering” elements from our traditions, an obsessive attention to vintage. Just look at what Alessandro Michele from Gucci has done for the last two seasons. Having said that, within the jewelry world there is a huge trend for new fine-jewelry, this trend is less developed in Italy compared to other parts of the world and so there is a notable growth margin in this particular market area.

From the red carpet to store windows. Do you think that by wearing certain pieces of jewelry, celebrities can increase demand?

Celebrities are always a strong driving force in terms of changing public taste and demand. This influence is very efficient in the case of fashion accessories, a case in point is ‘it bags’ or ‘it shoes’. As far as jewelry is concerned, celebrities certainly have the power to make people like the brand, but the jewelry they wear is completely out of the clients’ price range!

What are the basic concepts buyers should keep in mind at international trade fairs when in pursuit of new styles and designs to present to their clients?

Trade fairs are very important for both discovering new brands and picking up on new market and seasonal trends in general. The important thing is to be inquisitive and identify patterns which repeat amongst different brands. Being open to examining those brands and articles which at first glance seem ‘strange’, but which could be huge commercial successes in the future, is key.

Which are the most promising jewelry brands for 2016?

The Chinese market is still extremely promising, following a marked imbalance towards watches, they are increasingly focusing on buying jewelry. The Arabic and Middle-Eastern markets are always strong in terms of this market area. Russia is dropping steadily, but we hope it will pick up eventually because Russian consumers are particularly drawn to jewelry. The nouveau riche in Africa are increasingly present in London department stores, who knows, Italy might soon be their next shopping destination.

 

Lara Karmel, LIBERTY LONDON / UK — Buyers' Dept.

When you are looking for new styles and new designs to add to your lines, are you influenced by consumer demand or do you actually try to influence it yourself?

We house designers such as Oscar De La Renta and Monica Vinader to fulfil consumer

Marco Bicego

demand by housing their go-to brands. Yet we try and set ourselves apart from other big department stores by buying in to more niche brands, such as Kismet and Anna e Alex. We also have quite a few exclusivity deals with amazing brands such as Stephen Dweck and Anna Sheffield.

Who are the designers that, in your opinion, are emerging as new talents and that will make a name for themselves in this sector in 2016?

Kismet is definitely one to watch in 2016. The brand was launched 5 years ago in London by a Turkish designer called Milka Karaagacli. The aesthetic is clearly contemporary yet the use of traditional techniques and shapes leave the pieces with a high quality finish.  Another designer we house and are very excited about is Lebanese jewelry designer Noor Fares. Noor has been gaining a strong following for her sculptural fine-jewelry designs, which, though steeped in craft traditions, have a fresh, fashion sensibility.

 

Azzurra Cesari, Special Project Manager at Cesari & Rinaldi Gemmai, Board Member for Club degli Orafi.

Researching is a constant process: it is the interpenetration of the discovery of new materials and the capacity to push technical execution to the maximum limit of the stone's very nature. This is why we have established solid relations with the Company's creative and technical departments. Through constant dialogue over the years, we work together in pursuit of a common objective - the search for beauty.

Futurgem

Gems have always played an institutional role. Their very presence determines the passage from the jewelry-maker to the jeweller. In terms of creation, they are the creator’s palette. Gems are now an interesting investmentas their value has quadrupled in five years and is still rising. The quality of the gem is paramount. We guarantee it using accurate research and selection of the rough stones followed by a two phase quality control on the cut stones •