Brand as Ambassadors of the Age of Value
From the power of nature to the value of folklore via artisan tradition and a reformist outlook, the Joule Project, APOA, Anicet, and Maria Nilsdotter brands embody the new attitude of a generation of emerging designers
In a recent insight into the world of luxury, Matter of Form, a London-based consultancy agency, defined the current age as The Value Era. The concept of status has progressively changed, evolving from what we possess to what we value, both individually and socially. Reaffirming who we are (or who we wish to be) and expressing ourselves freely has become an act of rootedness. This shift is rewriting our identity code, redefining the perception we have of ourselves and others, and changing the parameters of our decisions.
This change is reflected in the world of jewelry, enlivened by a new wave of young designers interested in creating items that mirror the feelings and desires of the generation to which they belong. Their work shapes unprecedented aesthetic horizons, in which craftsmanship, contemporary taste, and an acute sensitivity towards popular cultures and history coexist. The preciousness of an accessory is thus transformed into a vehicle of narrative and emotional connection, acting as an indissoluble bridge between past, present, and future.
Raluca Leafu is the founder and creative director of Joule Project, a brand launched in 2020 and a concrete example of this approach. Attracted by all forms of energy, be it human actions or the geothermal force from the depths of the Earth—hence the brand's name—Leafu believes that each piece of jewelry is the fruit of a creative spark, a stone, or an emotion, able to make a moment tangible, an identity, or tell a meaningful story. "We are all pure energy, which is what attracts us to each other. That's how the idea of the brand came about," he explains. "Jewelry speaks. It is a form of unwritten communication. It carries a valuable emotional value that goes beyond aesthetics. My favorite part of the creative process is the story embedded in each stone. The fact that people can wear a powerful energy rooted in the depths of the earth fascinates and inspires me."
JP's unique aesthetic features a primitive dynamism, visible in the contrast between precious metals, such as 14-carat gold and 925 sterling silver, and in the carving techniques that evoke seismic cracks and faults in the earth's crust. Each creation comes to life through craftsmanship carried out in the brand's workshop in Bucharest. Supporting local artisans is, in fact, part of the mission of Joule Project, which gives each piece a unique and powerful language by combining ancestral techniques with modern design. A power that can particularly be felt in the latest Passport collection, comprising a series of rings inspired by the cities of New York, Paris, and London, each of which represents a beacon of energy, with its own rhythm, character, and extraordinary cultural mix.
This outlook of being deeply connected with nature and rooted in cultural origins but completely open to the world seems to be the common denominator among emerging jewelers who seek to enhance their creations intrinsically. Proof of this can be found in APOA (A Piece of Art), founded in 2023 in the heart of Riyadh, Saudi Arabia, by Noura, Sara, and Mashael, with the ambitious intention of fusing Saudi cultural heritage with a universal outlook. "Our tribute to the tradition of pearl harvesting is the focus of the first collection, highlighting our Arabian roots. The diversity of our world is reflected in each creation, made with great awareness. Inspiration comes in direct and indirect forms, from nature and local architectural landscapes to galaxies in space. There is no limit to our research and interests in the creation of our collections, both now and in the future."
Giving depth to the past is also the intent of Elia Pradel, who founded Anicet in 2020. Elia unearths treasures dating from the 1920s to the 2000s. She then takes them apart and reconstructs them to create unique unisex jewelry. Each piece, worked in her studio within the Parisian incubator Bureau de la Mode, du Design et des Métiers d'Arts, is cleaned, polished, filed, cast, soldered, and galvanized to be reborn in a new form. Her creations are inspired by the rhythmic structures of her Creole culture: in this way, the designer renews and interweaves the links between history, tradition, and contemporaneity. "Anicet doesn’t just create jewelry," says Pradel. "It tries to weave an invisible thread between artisan skills and the creativity of our time."
Founded in Stockholm in 2007, Maria Nilsdotter's eponymous brand is yet another expression of modern heritage. With a vision that transcends generations and trends, Nilsdotter aims to tell stories through fine jewelry that embodies a dark yet luminous universe, inspired by the melancholy of Nordic nature and local mythology. Her creations tell of fascinating creatures, gothic spells, and unpredictable twists, creating a unique blend of mystery and elegance. Once worn, each handmade item transforms and reflects the wearer's emotional energy and personal symbolism. Maria Nilsdotter thus manages to encapsulate an intimate and powerful experience in each piece of jewelry, turning them into modern talismans imbued with beauty and meaning.
This change is reflected in the world of jewelry, enlivened by a new wave of young designers interested in creating items that mirror the feelings and desires of the generation to which they belong. Their work shapes unprecedented aesthetic horizons, in which craftsmanship, contemporary taste, and an acute sensitivity towards popular cultures and history coexist. The preciousness of an accessory is thus transformed into a vehicle of narrative and emotional connection, acting as an indissoluble bridge between past, present, and future.
Raluca Leafu is the founder and creative director of Joule Project, a brand launched in 2020 and a concrete example of this approach. Attracted by all forms of energy, be it human actions or the geothermal force from the depths of the Earth—hence the brand's name—Leafu believes that each piece of jewelry is the fruit of a creative spark, a stone, or an emotion, able to make a moment tangible, an identity, or tell a meaningful story. "We are all pure energy, which is what attracts us to each other. That's how the idea of the brand came about," he explains. "Jewelry speaks. It is a form of unwritten communication. It carries a valuable emotional value that goes beyond aesthetics. My favorite part of the creative process is the story embedded in each stone. The fact that people can wear a powerful energy rooted in the depths of the earth fascinates and inspires me."
JP's unique aesthetic features a primitive dynamism, visible in the contrast between precious metals, such as 14-carat gold and 925 sterling silver, and in the carving techniques that evoke seismic cracks and faults in the earth's crust. Each creation comes to life through craftsmanship carried out in the brand's workshop in Bucharest. Supporting local artisans is, in fact, part of the mission of Joule Project, which gives each piece a unique and powerful language by combining ancestral techniques with modern design. A power that can particularly be felt in the latest Passport collection, comprising a series of rings inspired by the cities of New York, Paris, and London, each of which represents a beacon of energy, with its own rhythm, character, and extraordinary cultural mix.
This outlook of being deeply connected with nature and rooted in cultural origins but completely open to the world seems to be the common denominator among emerging jewelers who seek to enhance their creations intrinsically. Proof of this can be found in APOA (A Piece of Art), founded in 2023 in the heart of Riyadh, Saudi Arabia, by Noura, Sara, and Mashael, with the ambitious intention of fusing Saudi cultural heritage with a universal outlook. "Our tribute to the tradition of pearl harvesting is the focus of the first collection, highlighting our Arabian roots. The diversity of our world is reflected in each creation, made with great awareness. Inspiration comes in direct and indirect forms, from nature and local architectural landscapes to galaxies in space. There is no limit to our research and interests in the creation of our collections, both now and in the future."
Giving depth to the past is also the intent of Elia Pradel, who founded Anicet in 2020. Elia unearths treasures dating from the 1920s to the 2000s. She then takes them apart and reconstructs them to create unique unisex jewelry. Each piece, worked in her studio within the Parisian incubator Bureau de la Mode, du Design et des Métiers d'Arts, is cleaned, polished, filed, cast, soldered, and galvanized to be reborn in a new form. Her creations are inspired by the rhythmic structures of her Creole culture: in this way, the designer renews and interweaves the links between history, tradition, and contemporaneity. "Anicet doesn’t just create jewelry," says Pradel. "It tries to weave an invisible thread between artisan skills and the creativity of our time."
Founded in Stockholm in 2007, Maria Nilsdotter's eponymous brand is yet another expression of modern heritage. With a vision that transcends generations and trends, Nilsdotter aims to tell stories through fine jewelry that embodies a dark yet luminous universe, inspired by the melancholy of Nordic nature and local mythology. Her creations tell of fascinating creatures, gothic spells, and unpredictable twists, creating a unique blend of mystery and elegance. Once worn, each handmade item transforms and reflects the wearer's emotional energy and personal symbolism. Maria Nilsdotter thus manages to encapsulate an intimate and powerful experience in each piece of jewelry, turning them into modern talismans imbued with beauty and meaning.
