Nature’s Calling in Jewelry

Powerful, untamed, alive, the natural world calls for new alliances. Jewelry responds with creations that invite action and reconciliation. A constant striving towards a future where harmony, respect and conscious coexistence reign

Monday, 27 October 2025, by Antonella Reina

Biophilia, bioethics, biocentrism, coviability.

Over the last century, the language used to describe our relationship with nature has been enriched with new terms, coined in scientific, psychological and artistic fields, to give voice to the need to further the connection with the non-human living world. How will the bond between those who create precious forms and nature evolve? Will we use new words to define that primordial attraction that urges designers to seek inspiration in organic life, vegetal strength, animal fragility and/or power, and geometries without right angles for what will be generated and transformed? In architecture we experiment with materials that interact with microbes, imagining environments designed to coexist with what is alive but invisible. In medicine, the importance of the microbiome for one’s state of health is increasingly recognized. In psychology, the therapeutic power of contact with nature is being re-evaluated. Biology guides planning. So, what could happen in jewelry? What shapes, materials, symbols will emerge from a greater bond with nature? While waiting for a new word to define the evolution of the pact between goldsmith creation and the natural universe, we can observe and "feel" the present, which is already speaking to us. It does so with collections that reject symmetry and rigor, favoring curves, branching, the unexpected, organic materials. It does so with manifestos of slowness, care and attention. Because, if mankind’s evolution is linked to that of the planet, beauty has the power to reconcile us with true ecological feeling. Visionary artist and architect, Friedensreich Hundertwasser, had already understood this when he dreamed of happy buildings, where trees grew from the roofs and the walls swayed like hills. For him, art was a bridge between man and nature, a sign of reunion. An idea that is no longer so utopian, even in jewelry. It reminds us where we come from and with whom we are sharing the journey.

Study to Learn and Recognize

With Untamed Nature, Boucheron offers a masterful interpretation of nature, which has always been an inexhaustible source of inspiration for the company. Immersing herself in the historical archives, a precious library of more than six hundred volumes — including important 19th-century scientific treatises — creative director Claire Choisne has conceived 28 creations that reproduce the most modest forms of flora and fauna: clovers, daisies, wild roses intermingle with thistles, butterflies, beetles and dragonflies.
In white gold, diamonds, mother-of-pearl, rock crystal, and touches of black lacquer, the pieces seem to germinate on the skin, transforming it into a living habitat. With over 1,000 hours of workmanship for some creations, the collection becomes a refined encyclopedia of high jewelry in which the boundaries between the human body and nature dissolve.

Avoid a Dystopian Future

With the new F/W 2025 Aridity collection, Helena Thulin takes us to a dystopian future. It is the year 3025. Three botanists, tasked with reconstructing the origin of the now extinct human species, discover artifacts buried in the ground, dating back to a thousand years earlier. Precious fragments of a fierce humanity, marked by cold and hostile gender dynamics, shortly before its self-destruction. In this pre-apocalyptic scenario, Nature prevails. Humanity does not. Full of color and complex beadwork, the collection is a call for tenderness and action: a plea to build kinder relationships between men and women and with the Earth. Perhaps, our last chance.

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Open the Mind and Look Beyond The Visible

More like a sculpture than a jewel, creations by Inbar Avneri, a young Israeli designer based in Tel Aviv, originate from sketches of imaginary creatures, inspired by recognizable elements of the animal kingdom but reprocessed through a personal sensitivity. Objects that evoke nature, freedom, imagination. Inbar explores the fascinating paradox between fragility and strength: a transparent wing that can support a great weight, dew drops that appear empty but contain entire universes. The jewelry, made of 14 carat gold and enriched with natural diamonds, tries to capture that subtle tension between lightness and gravity, substance and air. In contact with the skin, it blends with the wearer as if by magic. In that moment, magic happens. That same enchantment that nature has always exerted to create harmony between what is visible and what is only perceived.

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Remember The Climate Crisis

Fallen Flora is Jet McQuiston’s first collection. The English designer retrieves the tradition of Victorian mourning jewelry to give life to a series of creations that tell individual stories through iconography taken from ancient cultures. The collection celebrates 70 iconic, yet now extinct, plants and flowers from different parts of the world, embodying a profound reflection on the climate crisis. Hidden among the floral motifs are the numbers "2, 3, 5 and 9", representing "one minute to midnight", a metaphor for the sixth mass extinction. The raw material is strictly traceable: single origin gold and precious stones from low environmental impact mines in Sri Lanka, where Jet's family originate from. The gems are extracted in open-pit mines with methods that respect the environment and guarantee fair working conditions.

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Believe in The Power of Green

In this set of jewels made of jade, titanium and enamel, designer Xiao Xintong, aka A.win Siu, expresses the link between nature and symbolism in oriental culture with originality, drawing on a semantic vocabulary that associates fruits, vegetables, and plants with the sphere of human desire. The shapes of plant elements evoke a deep sense of rebirth and harmony. Green, which dominates the entire collection, represents rebirth and hope. The jewelry therefore becomes the bearer of good omen, while nature reveals its spiritual and universal power through the most humble and fertile elements.

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Feel, Contemplate, Protect

Called Pura Vida, the collection by Capucine H, originates from an immersive experience in Costa Rica’s rainforest, one of the places with the highest density of biodiversity in the world. In lush nature, French designer Capucine Huguet has rediscovered the strength of the ecosystems that sustain it. The resulting jewels, made of recycled gold and ethical stones, are fragments of organic life translated into form. They display details inspired by the cooperation of leaf-cutting ants, the hypnotic curves of a snake, the compact spiral of a fern yet to unfurl. A way to celebrate life in its purest essence through the art of jewelry and a call to reconnect with nature: feel, contemplate, protect.

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Respect The Poetry of Fragility

Part of a new collection that will be presented by Bergdorf Goodman at the end of 2025, the Handkerchief Tree earrings and brooch, in a limited edition of 100 pieces, contain all the poetry of the plant known as the handkerchief tree. Enchanted by the fragility of its flowers, Luz Camino studied for a long time to reproduce their petals in jewelry and render the lightness of real corollas while maintaining their volume and movement. Made with pure silk, enamel, diamonds, chrome diopside on a silver and gold structure, they have a small green prehnite in the center to represent the seed, a symbol of potential, renewal, and the silent power of nature.