Paris Celebrates One-of-a-Kind Jewelry

In the new high jewelry collections from Buccellati, Damiani, Gucci, Messika, Pomellato, and Nouvelle Heritage, dozens of carat gems and pavé diamonds evoke the sands of the Kalahari Desert and the geometry of Italian gardens


here are those who celebrate the heritage of decades spent creating fairytale jewels, those who salute the beauty of their own country or those that have been the backdrop to memorable journeys. High jewelry is a significant ensemble of the many paths that large companies take to stand out. Buccellati, alongside the "bejeweled bags" capsule, delightful cosmetic bags embellished with precious gems, proposes a reinterpretation of tulle, one of the most complex techniques in goldsmith art, which adorns sumptuous diamond watches with the dial hidden by gems. With the Ode all’Italia collection, Damiani pays homage to Italy and its most famous coastal locations, kissed by a crystalline sea like the 46-carat Paraiba tourmaline at the center of the Marea Rosa necklace. Another "merely" 5.95-carat Paraiba tourmaline and a 24.75-carat tanzanite are the protagonists of the Movimento Fluido necklace by Gucci, a cult piece from the Labirinti collection which bases its geometries on Italian gardens. In the Fauvre necklace from Messika's Terres d'Istinct collection, created to celebrate 20 years of activity, the brushed gold recalls feline claws and the 2,491 diamond pavé donates the sand effect of the Kalahari desert, an echo of the magical safaris that the designer experienced between Namibia, Botswana and South Africa. Pomellato's 1967 collection consists of 75 unique pieces, including the splendid Aquamarine Dream necklace, that highlight the master skills of the 100 artisans working in the heart of Milan since 1967. Lastly, to mark the first 10 years of Nouvelle Heritage, Camille Parruitte ventures a punk re-edition of the Mood necklace, a choker with 856 diamonds amounting to 17.8 carats and 2 pink tourmalines acting as "buttons".

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