The Birth of an Idea: How the Vhernier Sorpresa Bracelet Was Born
The result of every creative process is like magic. A magic that hides an infinity of often unimaginable steps that are translated, one after the other, into a tangible work of art, a jewel to be worn. Isabella Traglio, Vice CEO of Vhernier, tells us step
«We are speaking of the Sorpresa bracelet which has been one of Vhernier’s must-haves since 1998. The bracelets in this line can be of various shapes but all of them have stones and diamonds concealed among the sculptured links that peek out, with extreme discretion, as the wrist moves. Two of our most expert craftsmen work to make these bracelets. One makes the bracelet and the other sets the diamonds. The process begins with smelting in a crucible where the pure gold leaves are fused with a selected quantity of cop-
per and silver to obtain the desired color. The gold ingot is lengthened and laminated several times and re-heated
now and then so that the gold does not cool. Once flattened, it is cut to the required size and modelled around a rod-shaped “tutor” with a hammer. The miniature plates containing the diamonds are inserted and soldered at each end.HE PERFECT PAVÉ
The hinges to be inserted into the various elements are made, shaped and folded, one by one, thus making them more resistant. The next process is “sieving” to determine the exact dimension of the diamonds to be set into the plates at the side of each ring. Every diamond is tried for fitting into the hole in which it will be lodged. Vhernier diamonds are always and only F for the color and VVS for purity levels and must all have the same identical cut to ensure the uniformity, luminosity and softness of the pavé. All the diamonds are inserted into their place and the same process is carried out for all the bracelet’s elements, including the hinges, whose thickness is tested between the two links. Each hinge is divided into three interwoven joints soldered to the two external connections, which are numbered, in order to be assembled in a specific order. This is because hand-made hinges and their relative pins are all different and must block with extreme precision. The total time for realization? Not less than 400 hours».
The hinges to be inserted into the various elements are made, shaped and folded, one by one, thus making them more resistant. The next process is “sieving” to determine the exact dimension of the diamonds to be set into the plates at the side of each ring. Every diamond is tried for fitting into the hole in which it will be lodged. Vhernier diamonds are always and only F for the color and VVS for purity levels and must all have the same identical cut to ensure the uniformity, luminosity and softness of the pavé. All the diamonds are inserted into their place and the same process is carried out for all the bracelet’s elements, including the hinges, whose thickness is tested between the two links. Each hinge is divided into three interwoven joints soldered to the two external connections, which are numbered, in order to be assembled in a specific order. This is because hand-made hinges and their relative pins are all different and must block with extreme precision. The total time for realization? Not less than 400 hours».
