The Bulgari Model: In Conversation with Lucia Silvestri
Rome, 1884. Sotirios Bulgari founded the maison that would go on to shape the development of both historic and contemporary jewelry. An entrepreneurial story that is as exemplary as it is full of charm, to be admired for its vision and foresight
What are the advantage points that have enabled the brand to span decades, fashions, crises and trends?
Bulgari's excellence passes through our fundamental pillars: the iconic creations, which embody the timeless splendor of Rome and color, which for us is everywhere, is celebrated and rejoiced with our pioneering and bold spirit that combines elements, materials and shapes, drawing from different cultures and traditions to create a design with an absolutely unique and distinctive aesthetic. And how could we not mention the extraordinary designers and craftsmen who are the heart of our creative process. With so much history to draw on, roots to preserve and respect, we are always inspired to reinterpret the magnificent richness of Bulgari in a contemporary key.
The brand’s pieces that have contributed to making high jewelry history?
Each of our high jewelry creations is designed and created to leave an indelible mark, like a work of art. The most emblematic example is the Serpenti Aeterna necklace, the most important masterpiece of the Aeterna High Jewelry collection, presented in May 2024 to celebrate the company’s 140th anniversary and the most precious creation Bulgari has ever made. We began with a rough diamond of over 200 carats from Lesotho, where the finest diamonds are found. When I saw it, I felt its energy, I felt the history of this gift from nature and I started to dream. It took 2 years and over 2800 hours to complete this necklace, which consists of seven D/IF diamond drops, totaling 140 carats, one for each year of Bulgari's history. And then there is the magnificent platinum necklace with emeralds and diamonds that once belonged to Elizabeth Taylor and is now part of the Heritage collection. With its 16 Colombian emeralds totaling over 60 carats accompanied by diamonds, it testifies to unparalleled elegance and craftsmanship. The central element, an incredible emerald of over 20 carats, was originally a brooch that Burton gave her on the set of Cleopatra, their famous movie, as an engagement and birthday gift in 1962. Taylor loved the brooch so much that she asked Bulgari to make a necklace out of it by turning the brooch into the central pendant.
What will enable the brand to continue through further new seasons and challenges?
One of the first lessons I learnt from Bulgari is to always have one eye on the past and the other on the future. A perfect example is our new Tubogas collection, a tribute to the brand's pioneering essence and iconic technique, which has been a trademark since 1948 and has since featured in iconic collections such as Serpenti, Monete and B.zero1. It combines two of our hallmarks: Tubogas and the use of yellow gold, which Bulgari has been particularly fond of since the 1950s. Comprising 16 exceptional creations, with Tubogas we have ventured into new experiments to appeal to a different clientele, with a special eye on the younger generations: from the most essential versions, aiming at a big comeback of yellow gold, to gold studs, diamonds and lively combinations with vibrant color contrasts.
What characteristics must a new company have in order to look to the future with confidence?
The key word is recognizability: in an increasingly competitive market, it is essential to stand out, to create a strong and unmistakable identity. This means offering not only products of extraordinary quality, but also an aesthetic that tells a story, that evokes emotions. At Bulgari, we work every day to maintain this uniqueness. We are recognizable through our ability to combine tradition and innovation, through our bold and pioneering style and our attention to detail. One must have the courage to be oneself, cultivate an authentic creative vision and never compromise on quality. Furthermore, it is crucial to have a long-term vision, taking into account sustainability and evolving customer tastes and expectations. Last but not least, passion is a must. It encourages a continuous search for beauty, for innovation and building something that can last forever, just like a piece of Bulgari jewelry.
Bulgari's excellence passes through our fundamental pillars: the iconic creations, which embody the timeless splendor of Rome and color, which for us is everywhere, is celebrated and rejoiced with our pioneering and bold spirit that combines elements, materials and shapes, drawing from different cultures and traditions to create a design with an absolutely unique and distinctive aesthetic. And how could we not mention the extraordinary designers and craftsmen who are the heart of our creative process. With so much history to draw on, roots to preserve and respect, we are always inspired to reinterpret the magnificent richness of Bulgari in a contemporary key.
The brand’s pieces that have contributed to making high jewelry history?
Each of our high jewelry creations is designed and created to leave an indelible mark, like a work of art. The most emblematic example is the Serpenti Aeterna necklace, the most important masterpiece of the Aeterna High Jewelry collection, presented in May 2024 to celebrate the company’s 140th anniversary and the most precious creation Bulgari has ever made. We began with a rough diamond of over 200 carats from Lesotho, where the finest diamonds are found. When I saw it, I felt its energy, I felt the history of this gift from nature and I started to dream. It took 2 years and over 2800 hours to complete this necklace, which consists of seven D/IF diamond drops, totaling 140 carats, one for each year of Bulgari's history. And then there is the magnificent platinum necklace with emeralds and diamonds that once belonged to Elizabeth Taylor and is now part of the Heritage collection. With its 16 Colombian emeralds totaling over 60 carats accompanied by diamonds, it testifies to unparalleled elegance and craftsmanship. The central element, an incredible emerald of over 20 carats, was originally a brooch that Burton gave her on the set of Cleopatra, their famous movie, as an engagement and birthday gift in 1962. Taylor loved the brooch so much that she asked Bulgari to make a necklace out of it by turning the brooch into the central pendant.
What will enable the brand to continue through further new seasons and challenges?
One of the first lessons I learnt from Bulgari is to always have one eye on the past and the other on the future. A perfect example is our new Tubogas collection, a tribute to the brand's pioneering essence and iconic technique, which has been a trademark since 1948 and has since featured in iconic collections such as Serpenti, Monete and B.zero1. It combines two of our hallmarks: Tubogas and the use of yellow gold, which Bulgari has been particularly fond of since the 1950s. Comprising 16 exceptional creations, with Tubogas we have ventured into new experiments to appeal to a different clientele, with a special eye on the younger generations: from the most essential versions, aiming at a big comeback of yellow gold, to gold studs, diamonds and lively combinations with vibrant color contrasts.
What characteristics must a new company have in order to look to the future with confidence?
The key word is recognizability: in an increasingly competitive market, it is essential to stand out, to create a strong and unmistakable identity. This means offering not only products of extraordinary quality, but also an aesthetic that tells a story, that evokes emotions. At Bulgari, we work every day to maintain this uniqueness. We are recognizable through our ability to combine tradition and innovation, through our bold and pioneering style and our attention to detail. One must have the courage to be oneself, cultivate an authentic creative vision and never compromise on quality. Furthermore, it is crucial to have a long-term vision, taking into account sustainability and evolving customer tastes and expectations. Last but not least, passion is a must. It encourages a continuous search for beauty, for innovation and building something that can last forever, just like a piece of Bulgari jewelry.
