Under the Starry Sky of High Jewelry
High jewelry is more adventurous than ever. As confirmed by the jewelry editors Annabel Davidson and Milena Lazazzera, and two luxury analysts
ANNABEL DAVIDSON
Jewelry Editor Vanity Fair on Jewellery, Contributor for Telegraph Luxury, Vogue UK, NY Times
«High jewelry is more adventurous and flamboyant than usual: crazy color combinations (white, black and mint green from Cartier, acid colors from De Beers...) and epic sizes. I am fascinated by the fact that some companies, from Van Cleef & Arpels to Messika, have placed the origin of diamonds at the center of their narrative, with collections of large rough diamonds from Botswana. However, the greatest innovator is still Boucheron, with Claire Choisne on another level to the rest of the brands when it comes to courage. Pebbles, butterfly wings, rattan, all combined with diamonds and precious metals. But it's not just a question of materials for Boucheron, it is also volumes, proportions, daring shapes... A special mention, however, goes to Chaumet and the Inks brooches in Ondes et Merveilles. True works of art; amusing, cool and extravagant. Striking examples of how high jewelry is making irony its strong point.»
PAUL ZIMINSKY
Diamond Analyst
«The industry has seen a significant increase in the sale of exceptional diamonds, including high quality coloreds, with prices above $1 million. This type of diamond is extremely strategic for the natural stone industry because it is the large stones that drive the sales of smaller ones. With the massive accumulation of wealth during the pandemic against a backdrop of record inflation and geopolitical uncertainty, the search for a safe haven asset means that for high jewelry, "the stars are aligning".» Source, The New York Times.
LUCA SOLCA
Senior Research Analyst, Luxury Goods at Bernstein
«Big brands have everything to gain from increased fixed costs in the luxury arena. The more impressive the event, the better. Moreover, it is the physical events that produce the biggest social media buzz. The trend for big brands is to spend so much that fewer and fewer brands will be able to maintain this level. The goal is to make money from all business-related activities, overshadowing those brands that cannot afford to stay in the game.» Source, The New York Times.
MILENA LAZAZZERA
Jewelry Historian and Contributor for FT, Vogue Business, NY Times
«This season, jewelry companies have stepped out of their comfort zones, pushing the boundaries of their aesthetic imagery further and further, enriching their respective languages with new materials, shapes and concepts, while still remaining true to their idiosyncratic identity. To give a few representative examples of this orientation, Boucheron's Ailleurs collection, inspired by a fantastic, otherworldly land, has introduced an earring with real butterfly wings, framed by a golden structure interspersed with diamonds, and a rattan and diamond necklace. De Beers, on the other hand, has experimented with aluminum to obtain volume and unusual coloring, while Chaumet has opted for chrysoprase and titanium. Another trend is the growing interest in diamonds in less common colors, such as brown and green, which have made their appearance at Cartier, Boucheron and De Beers.
