GemGenève, between the Culture of Tradition and Future Talents
Ronny Totah’s perspective, co-founder of the Geneva-based event dedicated to high jewellery, on the sector’s new landscape
In the last five years the jewelry world has undergone significant changes. What are the latest main trends in haute joaillerie? What are the new “directions” and market dynamics?
«Over the past five years, we have been experiencing the long tail of the pandemic, which has profoundly transformed our daily and professional lives and, consequently, our relationship with jewelry. However, the increase in the price of precious metals has not had as much of an impact as one might think: in high jewelry, value is primarily determined by the design and stones and these have not fluctuated enough to have really changed the market. The most significant changes have come from new exhibition formats, which have become much more responsible and focused on the quality of relationships. GemGenève plays an important role in this sense: we treat both exhibitors and visitors with respect, creating an environment that encourages authentic encounters. There has also been a cultural shift: during the post-pandemic period, many people — creatives, artists, artisans — have had more time to reflect on their aspirations. This has led to the emergence of new designers, some of whom are really talented. Nowadays, the trend is to buy something truly beautiful and meaningful, not necessarily linked to a big brand.»
GemGenève has always embraced a strong curatorial approach. What criteria guide the selection of exhibitors today, and how do you manage to balance tradition, emerging talent, and innovation?
«The selection criteria are based on a very clear vision. Some of the participating companies are large international organizations, but most are family businesses, and this spirit is essential for us. We look for exhibitors who respect customers, competitors, and, if possible, also the organizers: this is a fundamental requirement. Within this framework, we strive to achieve a balance between different types of operators. For example, we do not accept dealers who focus exclusively on white diamonds, as this would risk turning the show into a single-theme event. We prefer to offer true variety: fancy diamonds, colored stones, rare gems, vintage jewelry and contemporary creations. At the same time, we strongly promote young designers and schools. The educational aspect is central: we want the show to be a place of discovery, where the younger generation can get a close-up view of what inspires them and understand the creative possibilities this sector offers.»
One of the most appreciated aspects of GemGenève is its “human-scale” atmosphere. How do you preserve this spirit as the show continues to grow and become more complex?
«It's something that's in our DNA. GemGenève is organized like a family business: our permanent team consists of just six or seven people. We all work in the same open-plan office, which makes it natural to talk and listen to each other, and find solutions together. This human approach is automatically reflected in the show’s atmosphere. Despite our growth, we continue to prioritize direct relationships, authenticity, and an organization that, as far as possible, remains on a human scale.»
