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News to know: The Design Thinking Applied to Jewelry

“Be more inclusive to grow together”. This is how Paola De Luca invites sector players to evaluate a new way of conceiving jewelry


The concept of circular design applied to jewelry. This was the topic discussed yesterday during the first part of the TV Talk organized by Trendvision Jewellery + Forecasting, IEG Italian Exhibition Group's first independent Observatory specializing sione dei canali di approvvigionamento e di vendita, ma anche dei listini. La reattività delle imprese è basata su una elevata propensione all’investimento: il 60% dichiara di aver aumentato i propri investimenti nell’ultimo biennio, con una particolare attenzione nei confronti della formazione e del capitale umano, che ha ricevuto il massimo dei punteggi in termini di priorità ed è stato indicato solo dal 5% del campione come “non rilevante”. Seguono la digitalizzazione della fase produttiva, la ricerca e sviluppo e la valorizzazione del marchio. The survey, conducted before the war in Ukraine broke out but updated in the last few days, confirms the excellent results for 2021 with about 60% of those interviewed declaring no drops in turnover in 2020 or a full recovery in 2021. Crucial to the recovery is the extraordinary competitiveness on international markets with exports reaching a record 8.5 billion euro for fine and costume jewelry and 7.5 billion euro for gold jewelry alone. This was particularly due to excellent results in the United States, which is strengthening its role as the leading outlet. Against a backdrop of widespread optimism with more than 73% of companies expecting further growth in turnover in 2022, among the main critical issues that the survey already highlighted in January were the price of raw materials and delays in supplies, difficulties that the Russian invasion of Ukraine has amplified: about 78% of respondents showed a negative impact after the conflict, with the increase in raw material prices as the most critical issue shared by all respondents. The ability to react is significant: 30% of companies said they want to make organizational changes following the outbreak of the conflict, in particular by reviewing supply and sales channels as well as price lists. The companies' response is based on a high propensity to invest: 60% stated that they have increased their investments in the last two years, with particular focus on training and human capital, which received the highest score in terms of priority, with only 5% of the sample marking it as “not relevant”. This was followed by production phase digitalization, R&D and brand enhancement. Federica Frosini FOCUS in jewelry forecasting. On the Main Stage in Hall. 7, Paola De Luca, the Observatory's Founder and Creative Director, led an all-female debate on a concept that offers important growth opportunities for the sector. Inclusion, sustainability strategies and new aesthetic codes are among the key words of design thinking, according to which a creative process is not purely linked to making a product but embraces a system of values and attitudes aimed at clearly improving activities and making them synergic. Among the most incisive testimonies was that of Patricia Mweene, Founder of the Inonge Zita Jewellery brand, based on sustainable strategies that offer a positive impact in mining communities. Her jewelry is conceived and designed in Denmark, while the raw materials are worked in a women-only workshop in Zambia. Her project is an example of how jewelry can contribute to the socio-economic development of a country.

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