Brooches: A New Wave

From our September Issue a focus on three different brands that reinvented the way to wear brooches

Inspired by the animal world and the African deities, the three signed brooches by Rokus London, Chaumet and Beatriz Palacios have different characteristics but are distinguished by a strong common point: a new way of being worn.


It brings to mind the classic pocket watch, but the true inspiration for the Plenty Plenty brooch comes from gigantic Nimba masks: busts of the goddess of fertility, representing, in Guinea, abundance and fertility in women. Rokus London has translated the powerful symbolism of western African into a jewel with an artisanal feel but that is, at the same time, city- ed and truly versatile. Actually, the uni- sex brooch can be worn in different ways: on a lapel or the pocket of a jacket or on the shoulder to bring a military or vintage touch to the look. It can even be used to cinch the waist of dress.
It is a piece to be pinned on as well as a small sculpture to be admired. The Espiègleries brooch is one of the small masterpieces from Trésors d’Afrique, a new collection from Chaumet that celebrates Africa and its lush nature. Yet this collection doesn’t lack in humor to o er a lighter, more impertinent interpretation to the luxurious world of haute joaillerie. Designed by Kenyan artist Evans Mbugua, the brooch faithfully reproduces an elephant determinedly carrying a precious bouquet of flowers with its trunk, making for a delightful image whereby the allure of wild Africa meets the sweetness of a kind gesture.
We are used to seeing them on the lapels of jackets, but today, designers are using their creativity to o er up new, unusual places for wearing brooches. They have become an original detail to adorn a collar, decorate a jabot, or bring sparkle to the hair or a belt. Beatriz Palacios, a jeweler from Madrid, o ers an incredibly contemporary version: her creation reinterprets the classic form of a large vintage brooch using vermeil, freshwater pearls and recycled clear PVC. The result? An accessory that looks like a futuristic insect, which can be worn on all kinds of out ts, even the most simple.

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