A Journey through the Thai Gems
From the 62nd Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair that took place last September, our journalist Rachael Taylor reports her new vision of the Thai market
In a darkened ballroom, electrified by puffs of dry ice and lighting rigging extensive enough to satisfy the pickiest of pop stars, we await the commencement of the opening ceremony for the 62nd Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair. The room – filled with journalists, VIP visitors and exhibitors, and a stacked pyramid of paparazzi – is not disappointed.
Some formal announcements precede a lavish catwalk show with models dressed in gowns created by Paris-based Thai designer Tipayaphong Pusanaphong of TIPA Couture. The mostly classic high jewels, in exaggerated sizes set with diamonds, rubies and emeralds, were, of course, the creations of the exhibitors lining the halls of the show that would soon open up their treasures to us. The catwalk show’s theme is heritage and craftsmanship, and such cementing of Thailand’s position as not just a manufacturer but an artisan will be a recurring theme at this edition of the Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair.
Some formal announcements precede a lavish catwalk show with models dressed in gowns created by Paris-based Thai designer Tipayaphong Pusanaphong of TIPA Couture. The mostly classic high jewels, in exaggerated sizes set with diamonds, rubies and emeralds, were, of course, the creations of the exhibitors lining the halls of the show that would soon open up their treasures to us. The catwalk show’s theme is heritage and craftsmanship, and such cementing of Thailand’s position as not just a manufacturer but an artisan will be a recurring theme at this edition of the Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair.
The day before, hosted international press were taken on a whistle-stop tour of Bangkok and nearby Ayutthaya, with each destination carefully chosen to reinforce this message. The temples of Wat Mahathat and Chao Sam Phraya museum allowed us to look at the almost impossibly detailed bejewelled treasures of a lost age, while a tour of The Support Arts & Crafts International Centre of Thailand (SACICT) connected this craftsmanship history to the thriving artisan culture in the country today. The centre was a hive of modern examples of all types of Thai crafts, from basket and silk weaving to pottery and jewellery making. The last time I visited the Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair was in 2011. Back then, it was packed with manufacturers showing off what they were capable of, prioritising technical prowess over demonstrating individual creative flair. Seven years later, there is a marked difference. While the manufacturers and loose gem traders still take space at the show, and indeed jewellery manufacturing remains a huge part of Thailand’s economy, there is a clear effort being made by the organisers to champion emerging local design talent. As well as areas of the show dedicated to young brands and companies new to the event, there is also a healthy representation of local universities showing off the more conceptual work of student jewellers. There is also a section showcasing trends and innovations, highlighting individual designs deemed to be particularly inventive from across the show.
A favourite of mine from this section is a necklace designed to look like teeth. Created by Tithi Kutchamuch, who goes by the brand name Tithi, it has keshi pearls set into golden gums to create a surprisingly realistic look. I was also drawn to the colourful jewels of Kanakkorn Lamlert, created using strips of mat, flexiglass and drypoint printing, which glow in the dark. Nearby, Shannta offers up an interesting product for amateur jewellery makers – a soft clay that can be worked by hand into any shape and then, once it has dried and been heat treated, will turn into 99.9% solid silver.
There are also some explorative conceptual pieces at the show. Waste Is A New Legacy, Piroon Jewelry and Playground Electronics all pass comment on our throwaway culture through designs such as circuit board jewels and recyclable designs. Napatsorn Patamawisat uses fabric from high-vis vests to create jewellery that comments on today’s obsession health and safety rules.
For something a little more wearable, Kram Collection’s tiny cups and dishes attached to earring posts celebrate Thailand’s traditional blue-and-white chinaware, while Nimmind incorporates marble into its silver designs and Goodafternine uses bright enamel to create playful nature-inspired jewels.
Two days in, I was discovering a whole tranche of Thai designers I had never come across before, many of whom have styles that could transition to Europe or the US effortlessly. My personal favourite of these new discoveries has to be Anisa Chen, and I spend a long time trying on her large, statement jewels that celebrate the beauty of the organic, with raw characterful gemstones like tourmaline and druzy. These slick, modern designs, such as overarching hoops and edgy starburst-like rings with matching ear climbers are wearable, exciting and distinctive. And it is these attributes that seem to be the new benchmark for a fresh generation of creative Thai jewellers who are no longer satisfied with simply making for others and following trends, but creating their own path.
There are also some explorative conceptual pieces at the show. Waste Is A New Legacy, Piroon Jewelry and Playground Electronics all pass comment on our throwaway culture through designs such as circuit board jewels and recyclable designs. Napatsorn Patamawisat uses fabric from high-vis vests to create jewellery that comments on today’s obsession health and safety rules.
For something a little more wearable, Kram Collection’s tiny cups and dishes attached to earring posts celebrate Thailand’s traditional blue-and-white chinaware, while Nimmind incorporates marble into its silver designs and Goodafternine uses bright enamel to create playful nature-inspired jewels.
Two days in, I was discovering a whole tranche of Thai designers I had never come across before, many of whom have styles that could transition to Europe or the US effortlessly. My personal favourite of these new discoveries has to be Anisa Chen, and I spend a long time trying on her large, statement jewels that celebrate the beauty of the organic, with raw characterful gemstones like tourmaline and druzy. These slick, modern designs, such as overarching hoops and edgy starburst-like rings with matching ear climbers are wearable, exciting and distinctive. And it is these attributes that seem to be the new benchmark for a fresh generation of creative Thai jewellers who are no longer satisfied with simply making for others and following trends, but creating their own path.
Rachel Taylor
