Distribution: Illuminated models

Enlightened visions. This is how we could define the new distribution methods put into action by certain brands, which, in a difficult historical moment full of unpredictable situations in the medium to long term, have been able to evolve and look beyond the conventional. New distribution models have therefore been generated, which have placed designer couture jewelry in the windows of fast fashion giants, or seen historic brands open boutiquelaboratories where they invite loyal customers and “next gen” to see how their creations are made. And again, great independent jewelers, who have always been considered and cited as contemporary artists, donating items worth millions of euros to be auctioned in support of good causes and to fulfil the dreams of those most in need. Lastly, online, that magnum sea of opportunities that has become the ideal habitat for BtoB trading platforms for fine jewelry and vintage or marketplaces, that initially become popular and give rise to six-figure businesses and then evolve, structuring themselves as the sector’s point of reference for in-depth informative and scientific study. All strictly at the click of a mouse.

Elie Top x Zara

WHO Elie Top x Zara
WHY With the first costume jewelry collection for fast fashion giant Zara, Elie Top revives the glories of costume jewelry in a ready-to-wear version
WHERE Paris
WEB zara.com/fr

The jewelry by Flemish-born designer Elie Top, which appeared in Zara's windows at the end of September, is a true triumph of couture joaillerie. An exclusive and unprecedented collaboration that unhinges elitist visions and democratizes couture jewelry, bringing it into everyone's wardrobe. The “A Song of the Earth” collection is inspired by Van Gogh's landscapes, Gustav Mahler's Chant de la Terre, expanses of sunflowers, the colors of the sun and sky and the buzzing of bees. A riot of rhinestones that interprets the beauty of nature with a lively and playful style thanks to macro and exaggerated volumes that bring back the festive allure of costume jewelry. Elie Top's great innovation starts from this enlightened vision, which leads the designer to one of his highest challenges. After being welcomed into the ranks of big names like Alber Elbaz, Sant Laurent and Lanvin, in 2015 Elie Top launched himself into jewelry with the brand that bears his name. A company dominated by strong baroque and futurist accents without ever losing that ability to work with extra-large, yet still wearable volumes. His encounter with the giant fast fashion brand Zara, has allowed him to give even greater vent to his creativity with a ground-breaking ability to proclaim his innermost dreams through a hymn to nature.

 

Fabio Salini 

WHO Fabio Salini
WHY The first charity auction organized by Sotheby's in which an artist donated a total of 53 pieces worth € 2.5 million
WHERE London, Rome
WEB fabiosalini.it

«I have always felt more of an artist than a jeweler and all my thoughts aim at having jewelry recognized as a form of major art, not just a decorative art. Starting from this idea, during the pandemic I pondered on the deeper meaning of what I do and of luxury in general. Suddenly, it all seemed extremely ephemeral, an end unto itself. So, I wanted the value and beauty that I was creating to start having a greater and higher purpose, something that would no longer be the prerogative of the rich who could afford it. I therefore began to imagine turning my work into a means to realize one of my secret dreams: to do charity work, to support good causes and to make part of my fortune available to others. Yes, I consider myself lucky because I have always been able to dedicate myself to what I love and what makes me feel good and, in the wake of this personal drive for generosity, I decided to donate some of my creations to The Art of Wishes. Batia Ofer, its founder, is a great art collector and organizes fundraising events in support of Make a Wish, the association that fulfils the wishes of sick and long-suffering children. Being purely voluntary, Make a Wish manages to donate as much as 82% of the funds raised, a factor that had a big influence on my decision to entrust this charity project of mine to them and to Batia, with whom I immediately installed an extremely empathetic relationship. The next step was to involve Sotheby's as a partner for the auction, which took place in early September in London. I donated 53 pieces worth two and a half million euros and the proceeds were around one million pounds net of sales percentages.» 

 

Mimi Hoppen

WHO Mimi Hoppen, Director of Jewellery & Watches, Dover Street Market International
WHY Still revolutionary in their research and offer after 18 years
WHERE London
WEB doverstreetmarket.com

Mimi Hoppen's goal of «selecting jewelry by focusing on uniqueness and aesthetics, just like when we choose designers for our stores» continues to be the mission of Dover Street Market, a made-in-England department store with showcases in Ginza, Singapore, Beijing, Los Angeles, New York, as well as in London, where it was founded in Mayfair almost twenty years ago. And, of course, with extensive online visibility. In terms of jewelry, the choice is always up-to-date with the continual inclusion of new pieces, such as those by Bea Bongiasca, Bunney and Tom Wood as well as ad hoc launches, such as those of Nina Runsdorf, Alice Ciccolini and Raphaele Canot on the occasion of Frieze London in October and exclusive previews such as that of Unsaid.

 

77 Diamonds 

WHO Tobias Kormind, Managing Director, and Vadim Weinig, Director of Operations, Co-founder
WHY The world’s largest selection of certificated diamonds
WHERE London
WEB 77diamonds.com

In 2019 and 2021, winner of the Digital Innovator of the Year award at the Professional Jewellery Awards, and again in 2021, a finalist as Bridal Jewellery Retailer of The Year at the UK Jewellery Awards. In 2005, 77 Diamonds was among the first jewelry sales sites on the online market, opening a physical shop in London in 2009 and gradually opening six showrooms in Europe (Manchester, Frankfurt, Munich, Berlin, Stockholm, Zurich), a presence which became stronger after Brexit in 2020. Online continues to leverage innovation - Aberdeen Strategy & Research has calculated that it will invest USD 3.5 million in IT this year - also by structuring itself as a platform for popular and scientific indepth analysis of topics on diamonds and precious stones thanks to the collaboration of numerous experts. 

 

Villa Milano 

WHO Alice and Francesca Villa, designers
WHY They involve the public with creative and highly cultural displays, often dedicated to the city of Milan WHERE Milan
WEB villa.it

The historic Milanese jewelry store is now in its fifth generation, with Alice and Francesca Villa following a new experimental approach which not only offers creations of innovative design, but also an engaging shopping experience. The new boutique - located in Brera, a district populated by sophisticated shops - has a revamped image with a workshop open to the public so that they can see how the items are made, and constantly changing interactive showcases to kindle the customers' curiosity. Created in collaboration with groups of artisans and artists, these showcases are developed with interchangeable exterior and interior fittings, so as to bring out what is inside and bring in what is outside, in a continuous game of “wow” effect. «We are investing greatly in digital, which will be increasingly important, but a reality like ours cannot do without the physical encounter. This is the only way to carry on the narrative of an incredibly strong artisan awareness and a discourse of uniqueness, which, since 1976, is still what makes customers choose Villa Milano.»

Gioielleria Italiana

WHO Francesco Mangini founder & CEO
WHY B2B platform that independently manages production through different subcontractors. It allows the jeweler to create his or her own branded jewelry line in order to build customer loyalty
WHERE Albissola Marina, Savona, Italy
WEB gioielleriaitaliana.com

A start-up founded in 2019 with the idea of innovating the precious jewelry industry, a sector which is still so unaccustomed to digitalization. Gioielleria Italiana is a B2B platform headed by Francesco Mangini, which today boasts thousands of custom-made jewels made every month (up to 280,000 combinations of classic jewelry can be assembled), more than 300 client jewelers in Europe and one hundred jeweler associates of the project. Gioielleria Italiana has put the power of technology at the service of the creativity of those working in the Valenza district, bringing together the artisanal and digital worlds and taking the Italian supply chain to a higher level of competitiveness. In recent weeks, Cassa Depositi e Prestiti has become a partner of Gioielleria Italiana, investing one million euros. After the two tranches of capital increase from private lenders and the investment received thanks to the victory on B-Heroes, a state fund has also decided to become part of Gioielleria Italiana. 

Jewelers Circle

WHO Marianne Fisher, Co-founder and Managing Director
WHY Expanding the trade show model, for antique and modern jewelry
WEB jewelerscircle.com

Launched in October 2020 with over 80 members, this online B2B trading platform enables the fine and vintage jewelry industry to find and sell products, gemstones, watches and collectibles. Created by trade for trade, it uses patented technology designed with input from the founders of the International Antique Jewelry Association (IAJA). The Shared Gallery service, a virtual memo that retailers can send directly to customers, provides a personalized and targeted digital shopping experience.

Retail Tune 

WHO Claudio Agazzi, founder and CEO
WHY To standardize, streamline and update store data on the most searched platforms
WHERE Parma, Italy
WEB retailtune.com

At the October 2022 edition of Forum Retail, for 22 years the largest networking hub for the retail community, Claudio Agazzi, CEO and founder of RetailTune, presented the potential of the platform that, with a click on a smartphone, connects customers to the physical store: «Local communication linked to points of sale is a great opportunity for companies, a type of pull communication aimed at making surfing the web easier by providing all the functional information to favor visiting both the single and multibrand store.» RetailTune leaves no element of the Customer Journey to chance, from geolocalization to information “tailoring” with personalized calls to action and Drive to Store management. Among the new features is the Concierge Page that gives the main Drive to Store information: photos, opening times, address, contacts and targeted promotional activities