The Turning Point

«So many barriers were broken in the 1980s, leading the way forward for a new freedom of expression for both designers and wearers. The decade paved the way for the perception of jewelry as a work of art, for a time of intense connoisseurship and the quest for the absolute, the one-of-a-kind jewel and the one and only gemstone.  I believe it led to far more emotion in jewelry, to a more personal connection to jewelry, and opened up different genres, from silver jewelry to today’s so called "demi-fine". The 1980s saw the important process of democratizing the diamond, laying the foundations for diamond jewelry for all ages and occasions. 

This decade marked a turning point for the jewelry industry for several reasons. The 1980s was first and foremost the decade of costume jewelry, of post-feminist power dressing - think of Dallas and Dynasty, shoulder pads, big hairstyles and a focus on accessories as a way of injecting fantasy and individuality into the working woman’s wardrobe.  It was the decade of Monty Don and Butler & Wilson, when fashion jewelry became more innovative, more creative, more interesting than fine jewelry, and when it was no longer considered “second class” or purely imitative, but was unashamedly faux or fake and worn by top models, movie stars and even royalty – Princess Diana was a regular visitor to Butler & Wilson and wore their jewelry even for formal occasions, mixing fine and faux.  Women could express their individuality, personal style, wit and humor through fashion jewelry.  Meanwhile, fine or precious jewelry – for the most part - had become formulaic, designed within an insular and narrow “ivory tower”, disconnected from the broader design world, with little or no cultural or fashion relevance. Generally speaking, precious jewelry was characterized by what I call “surface stylism” – in other words, it wasn't “about” anything. There was no narrative, meaning, and very little emotion.  I remember walking around the Place Vendôme and thinking how everything in the windows looked the same – torque necklaces with pavé diamonds, lots of pavé... Of course, there were exceptions – Bulgari flourished in the 1980s, making wonderful jewels, like the Monete and the Parentesi collections, introducing the concept of modular jewelry. And Italy was flourishing stylistically, taking the lead in industrial and product design.»

Vivienne Becker
Historian, journalist and author of 29 cult books on jewelry design, she has been curating major exhibitions for more than 30 years, including Jewels of Fantasy, sponsored by Swarovski, and on tour in numerous countries. She recently launched Vivarium, a platform for the most talented designerjewelers. @vivienne.becker.