In conversation with Emanuele Pennisi


In conversation with Emanuele Pennisi

Antique jewels, savoir faire and treasures from times past. In Milan, the historic jeweler Pennisi reveals the tastes, stories and curiosities of a very special clientele
Emanuele Pennisi with Franca Sozzani

If antique jewels are synonymous with passion, then they have converged at Gioielleria Pennisi, the exclusive Milan boutique where the past is in the spotlight with collections that define the history and culture of yesteryear. Located in the fashion quadrilateral of Milan, it was opened in 1971 by Giovanni Pennisi, a diamantaire and the grandson of a Catania gold jeweler. Today it is one of the city’s most iconic jewelry stores, and a point of reference for collectors and antique jewelry aficionados from all over the world. Emanuele Ferreccio Pennisi represents the third generation of the family. Blue-eyed and incredibly sharp, he describes a meticulous and very demanding clientele: «After my thesis, I couldn’t get rid of this thing called passion,» he reveals in the tea room of the Grand Hotel et de Milan, which is right next to his renowned store on Via Manzoni. «Our customers are sophisticated people that know that if they want to buy an antique jewel, they can find it at our store.» And their clientele vaunts celebrity names, often from the world of glamour: «Fashion has always been linked to antique jewels, perhaps be- cause of the perpetual thirst of designers in search of new inspiration. I see industry people who have been coming to our boutique since I was a child.»

This might be why Emanuele is so up to minute on the latest trends, in addition to being an expert on the hi- story of jewels and gemmology, fundamental skills for this line of work. He tells us the top-selling stones today are rubies, emeralds and sapphires, and that diamonds are still the most popular with the Milanese. He also tells us that, after the success of large, showy nineteenth- century earrings, this is the year of brooches and rings: «Colorful rings that don’t have to be ultra-precious. The most desirable, because of their rarity, go back to the late eighteenth or early nineteenth century: many used in France and England, created with royal-blue enamel and decorated with diamonds or precious stones.» Their bond with fashion is further strengthened through a special relationship they cultivated with Miuccia Prada, one of the most influential designers in fashion, a great lover of jewelry and a regular at their boutique: «Miuccia Prada knows what she wants, she adores jewelry; she has a lot and has bought a lot from us. She looks for unusual things, and they don’t necessarily have to be precious. She has a vision that goes beyond ‘status’ and she probably wants to be astonished.» Pennisi also had the privilege of sharing his passion and research with Franca Sozzani, a special ambassador to his store: «We owe her a lot. We were always close and she gave us a lot of advice. Every once in a while, she’d come by and choose something. She loved nineteenth-century jewels above all, wore many necklaces, bracelets and earrings, and was quite partial to cameos.»

 

 

 

Gioielleria Pennisi A yellow gold and platinum blue enameled ring, with a center brilliant-cut diamond, Italy, circa 1960.

 

*As originally featured in the last issue of the VO+ USA special edition


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