In conversation with Maria Tash

IF COLLECTIVE IMAGINATION had a voice, it would talk about piercing as a rebellious and anti-conformist accessory, the prerogative of several youth sub-cultures that marked last century's most revolutionary and anarchic years with their provocative style. But body art, or the art of permanently decorating, personalizing and embellishing the body, dates back to times long past. In fact, in many ancient civilizations, man operated on his own body, often transforming it to extremes, to claim physical, mental or even religious individuality. Nowadays, this originally tribal practice, increasingly accepted by all social orders, is much- loved and becoming more and more popular. Already given the go-ahead by the most irreverent and contem- porary fashion brands, from Alexander McQueen to Givenchy, piercing recently appeared in Gucci's Fall/ Winter 2017-18 catwalk, introducing itself as one of the trends that will most greatly appear in the coming seasons. We spoke with Maria Tash, a renowned New York-based designer, whose outstanding creativity got her noticed in the piercing world. The merit of first having created a bridge between 'the art of piercing' and jewelry goes to her. Her highly valuable gold and diamond piercings are much coveted by celebrities and all those who look in detail for the true sense of an authentic and elegant style. 

When did you start?

I began designing jewelry in 1992 and then, in 1993, I opened my piercing studio in Manhattan, in the East Village. At the time, the market only offered industrial- looking accessories in steel. I started experimenting with hypoallergenic metals like niobium and titanium, combining them with gold and silver bead decorations. Those were the years of navel piercing and I made a lot. These days I'm mainly known for my linear jewelry with precious finishings, perfect for lobes and ear cartilage.

Piercing jewelry seems to be a new luxury trend. What's your opinion? It is still a niche trend. Requests for small piercing in the lobes and ear cartilage are constantly on the increase. The most popular are on the helix - the upper curve of the ear - and on the tragus, the tiny cartilage protrusion in front of the ear canal.

How would you define your creations?

Minute but highly detailed jewelry to constant wear. My customers feel courageous and beautiful after a piercing: they have overcome their fear and own an item of jewelry made in perfect harmony with their personal aesthetics.

What materials do you use?

I love working with pink and yellow gold and diamonds. Blending classics with new technologies is fun. The result is innovative jewelry, something never seen before.

*As originally featured in the last issue of the VO+ USA special edition