A “Shower of Stars" for Sisi

How is the high-end clientele evolving?

“Köchert is a deeply Austrian and distinctly Viennese brand and our clients value this identity above all else. It is our greatest strength. Today, people are looking for authenticity, history and a connection to a place. In recent years, interest in Empress Sisi has also experienced a revival, thanks in part to films and television series, and this has brought renewed attention to our maison.”

What's the secret to remaining contemporary without betraying your heritage?

“You have to listen to the client. We follow latest developments because it is important to understand what people are looking for, but our real goal is to fulfill each individual's desires. Tradition helps to build trust. We remain faithful to the Viennese style, culture and the artisanal techniques that define us, while reinterpreting historical motifs such as knots and bows in a contemporary way.”

What are your most iconic pieces?

“Without a doubt, the Sisi Stars. We still produce hundreds of them every year. There are also timeless classics such as diamond bracelets. Interestingly, many aesthetic elements from the 1980s are making a comeback.”

Do you remember any particularly special commission?

“One of the most unusual came from Prince Ernst August of Hanover, a very creative personality. One evening, after a dinner with friends, he came up with the idea for a bracelet using the wire cages from champagne bottles. The recipient was Princess Caroline of Monaco, who had already commissioned several fascinating pieces from us over the years. We then realized that bracelet in gold and gemstones.”

Do clients ever bring you vintage Köchert pieces to adapt to contemporary tastes?

“Yes, it often happens that grandchildren and great-grandchildren bring us pieces we originally created. Recently, a client brought in an Art Deco brooch and asked us to make it even more impressive. We did not destroy the original; instead, we redesigned it into a larger, more striking version while preserving the charm of the historic piece.”

Köchert and the Imperial Family: is there an anecdote you can share?

“In 1864, during a performance of The Magic Flute at the Vienna State Opera, Empress Elisabeth of Austria noticed a singer wearing sparkling white stars in her hair. She loved them so much that the very next day we were entrusted to create 27 diamond stars later worn in the famous portrait by Winterhalter. That is how the famous Sisi Stars were born, eventually becoming the symbol of our maison.”

Why is vintage jewelry enjoying a new golden age?

“We also deal in historical Köchert jewels, of course. We acquire them at auctions such as Christie’s and Sotheby’s, as well as directly from clients. The purpose is twofold: to build the most complete archive possible and to draw on our heritage in order to reintroduce particularly distinctive or relevant motifs, sometimes enhanced with contemporary details.”

What is your relationship with Vicenzaoro?

“It is a very interesting event because it brings together everything the market wants to see. For us, it is also important for sourcing gemstones and for its vintage area, where one can always discover pieces of considerable interest.”