Highlights, September 2026: George Kakuda, the Future of Akoya Pearls

Akoya pearls are one of Japan’s most symbolic treasures. What cultural significance do they convey? Akoya pearls were extremely formal and even sacred. They were used as ritual objects during the foundation ceremonies of religious buildings as a symbol of protection and prosperity. They were therefore not merely a precious commodity, but something sacred. In the Wei Zhi Woren Zhuan, a Chinese chronicle compiled at the end of the 3rd century, it is written that pearls were among the principal tribute gifts sent from Japan. Through these exchanges, Japan came into contact with cultures and knowledge from China and Europe along the Silk Roads. Even in postwar Japan, Akoya pearls, along with silk, were one of the country’s main export products through which it acquired foreign currency. Pearls have therefore been one of our most valuable treasures and, at the same time, an important means through which Japan has encountered and assimilated different cultures, both within the nation itself and in its relations with other countries.

What makes them so unique and timeless? The high percentage of pearls that exhibit interference colors of the highest quality, surpassing those of other varieties. Another factor is the extraordinary proximity between pearl farming sites and populated communities, which can have a significant influence on the quality of the pearls. In other words, people’s lives and pearl farming are deeply intertwined. The concept of “timelessness” stems both from the fact that pearls can be passed down from mother to daughter to granddaughter, and because they simply “accumulate” time. A pearl is a rare biomineral that contains organic substances, particularly proteins. Therefore, unlike a diamond, it is not immutable. Over the years, the way a person has cherished, cared for and loved a pearl leaves a mark. Hence it can be said that the care, attention and affection of all the people who have come into contact with that pearl are deposited upon it, layer after layer.

Vicenzaoro is a leading international jewelry trade show. What role does it play in strengthening trade relations between Japan and the European market, and what is the JPEA’s goal for this edition? Italy is still the main European market for buyers, who play a fundamental role in connecting our production to the European distribution network. Vicenzaoro is one of their most important venues for networking and doing business. Our presence here is also a way to support their work. And it is precisely thanks to the collaboration of so many people in Italy that The Future of Akoya project has finally come to fruition. It is wonderful for us to be able to use this opportunity to share the full potential that Akoya pearls still englobe with the European public. It was primarily Italian and French buyers who, as of the late 19th century, contributed to diffusing Japanese Akoya pearls around the world. As production expanded in the postwar period, trade grew even further and the market reached full maturity. Later, as pearls from an increasing variety of mollusk species began arriving in Europe, the volume of Akoya trade declined. However, we are now starting a new chapter. Japanese Akoya pearls are not just unique and unmistakably beautiful, we are also consolidating and demonstrating their sustainable and regenerative nature. Furthermore, their extraordinary variety of size gives enormous creative freedom and enables new, diverse and innovative designs to be developed. I believe that the future of Japanese Akoya pearls will depend greatly on how they are reinterpreted and marketed, first and foremost in Europe and the United States, sophisticated markets with a long history and a well-established pearl consumption culture.

How do you see the Akoya pearl market evolving and what technological innovations could have the greatest impact on the industry? The quantity ofn Japanese Akoya pearls entering the market is relatively stable and predictable. This reduces uncertainty for industry players and allows buyers to plan their activities with greater confidence. I therefore believe the market can develop steadily. From a technological standpoint, the entire industry is working on genetic analysis to improve the management of oyster parent lines. It is important to point out that this approach is completely different from genetic modification or gene editing. The goal is to avoid inbreeding and increase the diversity of the oysters’ immune mechanisms. If, through this work, we are able to produce mollusks that are hardier and better suited to current environmental conditions, the quantity and quality of production can be improved. Currently, demand for Japanese Akoya pearls exceeds supply. If we can increase production through these technologies by about 30% over the next ten years, I believe we could achieve a balanced level of growth to the benefit of producers and all those involved in the market.

How is the international market changing and which areas offer the greatest growth opportunities? Over the past ten years, the Chinese pearl market has undergone extraordinary growth. This strong demand has contributed to rising prices and has drastically reduced the volume of pearls available through traditional international distribution channels, particularly those serving Europe and the United States. However, the situation has changed significantly in the last two years. While Chinese demand is still solid, it has lost its exceptional momentum, and prices, after a period of correction, appear to be heading toward greater stability. We have also launched promotional activities in particularly dynamic emerging markets, such as India, but Europe and the United States are still the markets in which we have the highest expectations.

More than a hundred years after Kokichi Mikimoto’s achievements, what significance do his spirit and legacy hold today? I see Kokichi Mikimoto as a person on the one hand endowed with the almost stubborn tenacity of someone who, once he has set his sights on a goal, never takes a single step back, and, on the other, with an extraordinary pioneering spirit, always ready to take on new challenges. We are now in an era in which the natural environment is changing so rapidly that past experiences alone are no longer enough. That is why I believe that those two qualities — determination and initiative — are more necessary today than ever before. Without them, we cannot go forward.

For many years, pearls were associated with a classic style. How is this changing? Mikimoto, through its collaboration with Comme des Garçons, has proposed a new genderless interpretation of pearls. Meanwhile, Tasaki has enlisted leading designers from various disciplines and has also collaborated with figures from contemporary Japanese culture, such as the anime Chainsaw Man, offering totally new perspectives and interpretations of pearls compared to the past.

Initiatives to engage younger generations? We are developing the Pearl Impact project through which we concretely measure the environmental and social impact of the pearl industry. The aim is to scientifically demonstrate the sustainability of Akoya pearl farming in Japan. We believe this can be particularly meaningful for Gen Z, who tend to pay close attention to both the product and its social and environmental significance.

The event, organized by Preziosa Magazine, will also feature some of the most influential figures in the international jewelry industry: Paola De Luca, The Futurist, editor of the book, Alfonso Vitiello from the D’Elia 1790 and jewelry designer Alessio Boschi.