From Central Saint Martins to SCAD, Education Is Regenerative
They call it "cultured luxury", an evolution of contemporary jewelry that shifts from being a status symbol to an intellectual statement. But how, and by whom, are the future designers of this new creative concept trained?
In a cultural ecosystem where jewelry is becoming an intellectual, ethical and story-telling object, true rarity is cultivated through creative education via curricula and partnerships designed to guide students beyond the academic realm. Today’s real challenge lies in evolving prevailing teaching models and seeking out new allies for future generations of creatives outside the classroom. A trailblazer in this regard is the renowned Maison/0 project, launched in 2017 by Central Saint Martins in London in collaboration with LVMH, that acts as an incubator where students are invited to redefine the very concept of ‘precious’. It is here that “cultured luxury” finds its essence by applying regenerative intelligence to what society deems as waste. One example is Arab student Madhawi Alzuabi, who explores concepts of value and preciousness by transforming date pits, a systematically discarded material that is, however, intrinsically linked to Saudi Arabia’s cultural and economic identity. «My work is driven by the material; the creative process thus becomes a form of inquiry. I explore concepts of value and preciousness in contemporary jewelry by transforming date pits,» the artist says. «I examine how value is defined and what, conversely, remains invisible or overlooked. Through carving and casting techniques and temperature-controlled color treatments, I combine pits from my father’s plantation with a bio-resin to test their structural and aesthetic potential. Through experimentation, the material reveals unexpected qualities, transforming from mere waste into a re-evaluated and reinterpreted resource for contemporary jewelry,» she concludes. Sally Collins, Course Leader for BA Jewellery Design at Central Saint Martins, University of the Arts London, adds: «Jewelry has always been a powerful medium for expressing ideas, values and identities, and this year’s graduates have interpreted this aspect in original and meaningful ways by producing pieces that reflect the topics close to their hearts. These range from sustainability and social change to personal stories and different cultural perspectives. The young creators challenged traditional notions of the materials that can be used to make jewelry and the stories such pieces can tell. The result is jewelry crafted from reclaimed limestone, discarded date pits and broken glass. Beauty and value were discovered in unexpected “places”.» And while “cultured luxury” in London is being driven by repurposing waste materials, the recent opening of the Savannah College of Art and Design’s Bazaar by ShopSCAD boutique in Savannah, Georgia, has captured the attention of the noblest of media outlets, such as BoF. What is making headlines is the innovative nature of this retail model: a concept store offering a wide selection of garments, accessories and jewelry created by SCAD students themselves. The aim is to give students a first-hand experience of the entire retail ecosystem, not just the design a product, but also its marketing and selling, as well as understanding what customers want. «The off-campus boutique functions as a sort of trading post for the fashion school,» Ash Williams, Bazaar’s director and manager, tells Fashionista. «Students,» she adds, «learn about design, branding and consumer behavior in the classroom, while the boutique, here at Bazaar, gives them a real-world environment in which to put those concepts into practice. The feedback a customer gives you after purchasing your product is something you couldn't get from any book,» she concludes. Dirk Standen, Dean of the SCAD School of Fashion, echoes this sentiment by telling BoF: «With Bazaar by shopSCAD, we are bringing new energy and new voices to the retail design sector. A constantly evolving creative workshop with a bold and playful point of view. For our students, it is a valuable opportunity to gain direct experience in selling their own creations in a real-world setting; for consumers, it is a chance to discover the next generation of design talent and access creations that, in many cases, cannot be found elsewhere.» SCAD student Paige Kessler Swope agrees. «Being part of the Bazaar was a wonderful opportunity that pushed me out of my comfort zone. Since my focus is jewelry and fashion accessories, it is a privilege to see my creations displayed here alongside clothing. Knowing that the other pieces were crafted by fellow students, teachers and ex-students, makes the experience even more rewarding and I get to admire the incredible craftsmanship and design within the SCAD community.» Universities, companies and new partnership models are redefining the role of education, transforming it into the primary workshop for contemporary luxury because, before being a product, “cultured luxury” must be a form of knowledge.
