The Infinite Shades of Coral for Winter

To understand the depth of red, it would be best to enter the galaxy of Diana Vreeland, the pioneering brand seen on the pages of Harper’s Bazaar and Vogue America in the mid-20th century. «Red is the great clarifier – bright, cleansing and revealing. I can’t imagine become bored of red – it would be like becoming bored with the person you love. All my life, I’ve pursued the perfect red.» But the ‘perfect red’ seems to have been found by another fashion great, Valentino, whose name is linked to a specific tone, produced by a mix of 0% cyan, 100% magenta, 100% yellow and 10% black to attain a color close to that derived from the fusion between crimson, purple and cadmium red. Passionate and sensual, dynamic and energetic, and even contemplative and playful, it has many facets, summarized in an infinite ribbon of shades and enclosed in a handful of definitions: titian, Valentino, pomegranate, scarlet, cinnabar, fire-engine and coral.

Given its powerful unrestrained ability, in fashion it respects no seasonality. In jewelry, rubies are worn in every season, while perhaps coral a little less. In reality, coral jewels are customarily worn in summer because of their good amount of exoticism and hedonism. Coral brings to mind evocative far-o places, white beaches and crystal-clear waters. However, there is a but. Today, coral is breaking down old conventions and carrying out a minor style revolution. And that is because it hides an ability to undermine and upturn classic style rituals imposed by traditional ornamental rules. It is managing to break down the borders of déjà vu, in a totally unconventional and even revolutionary way, thanks to contemporary jewelry designs. Moving full-speed ahead in a timeless dimension, free of seasonality. A star (also) in winter. 

 

Cover Photo: Model LaFerre wearing coral beads gathered with gold and emerald cabochons, 1960- Courtesy of David Webb

Words Maristella Campi