The New Sales Models of Auctions

«The fact that Sotheby's, famous for its historic jewelry auctions, regularly displays and sells unique pieces from independent brands, such as Nikos Koulis, Hannah Martin and many others, at a fixed price, is a clear sign of a newly undertaken direction, which broadens the scope within which traditional auction houses can operate, and diversifies sales activities,» explains Paul Redmayne, Senior Vice President for Luxury Sales at Sotheby's. And he adds: «In this way, we also give contemporary jewelry designers the chance to reach a different audience of collectors and to be seen in new environments. The presentation and sale of Nikos Koulis in Paris or the collaboration of Hannah Martin with Guy Berryman (Coldplay bass guitarist and founder of Applied Art Forms) in London, also testify to the type of jewels that we will be selling in our Salons. These modern and original collections tend to attract a slightly different clientele compared to buyers of more classic jewelry from companies such as Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, protagonists of both our online and live auctions.»

Immediacy, careful selection, tailor-made experiences, and sales at a set price like real boutiques. Auctions, with Sotheby's acting as a pioneer, are presenting themselves on the market as new purchasing platforms without ever losing sight of the sophistication of the physical venue. «The concept behind the Salons is to offer customers an alternative to our auction models and allow them to buy immediately from an exceptional selection, in an elegant environment and with a high-level service. For over five years, we have been selling products at a fixed price — in particular luxury goods — through the online platform with "Buy Now", meeting the needs of customers who want to buy at any time and from anywhere. Offering a personalized experience in a physical space was an inevitable next step and a natural consequence of what we were already experiencing online, and the opening of the Paris Salon, in our new location, completed this experiential offer.»

This is how luxury becomes increasingly on demand, making the distinction between auction and traditional sale ever more blurred. A sort of silent revolution in the auction market that offers independent brands new opportunities and guarantees them an audience of global collectors outside the more conventional circuits.

«Seeing my creations recognized and presented by Sotheby's Paris — a capsule of 30 unique, limited edition and numbered pieces from the Wish high jewelry collection — was like finding myself in that intimate environment I had always desired and imagined for my jewelry. An important moment in my career, which reaffirms my commitment to artistic integrity and stimulates the desire to evolve by pushing the boundaries of creativity, and also to dialogue with demanding collectors. This collaboration encompasses the value, DNA and narrative that can only be transmitted through direct and personal relationships within an exclusive environment, where I can share my discoveries, inspirations and my most coveted pieces. Being a collector myself, I deeply cultivate the ethic of discovery and support trust in quality throughout my creative journey. I believe today's collectors are attracted to creations that reflect personal expression and authenticity. They are looking for jewels that tell a unique and emotionally engaging story and Wish is an expression of this change: it's about creating something unexpected, but deeply meaningful. With this collection I felt the need to free myself from any design-related constraints and to explore a more sculptural and intuitive way of creating. The pieces are bolder but with a deliberate contradiction, balancing softness with structural strength. There is a sense of movement around the spine of each piece, which gives them the fluidity that any work aims for,» explains Greek designer Nikos Koulis.

And it is in this slow fluctuation of evolutionary energies that the needs and strategies of brands such as Sotheby's, Nikos Koulis and Hannah Martin meet, finding their elective refuge in these new and unusual sales salons.